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  Wine Ebooks:
 The Complete Grape Growers Guide.
A Complete Guide For Growing Grapes. Converts Very Well At A Reasonable Price! Growing Grapes And Making Wine Is A Very Popular Topic Right Now.
 Fool-Proof Wine Values.
Learn How To Easily Find Wines Of $50 Quality For $10 Or Less. Impress Friends With Your Expanded Wine Knowledge. Eliminate Your Dependence On Wine Salespeople. And Take The Hassle Out Of Buying Wine.
 Build Your Own Wine Cellar.
How To Build Your Own Home Wine Cellar To Store Your Wine In Optimum Condition ... 100% Guaranteed.
 Secret Wine Making Recipes.
First Time Revealed: Discover Now Secrets Of Perfect Self Made Wines.
 Make Wines & Spirits From The Comfort Of Your Own Home.
Earn $6.17 / Sale! %75 Commission! The Ultimate Resource For Anyone Who Wants To Learn How To Make Outstanding Wines & Spirits From Their Very Own Home!
 Making Wine From Home.
A Fun And Very Informative Book On Home Wine Making. The De Facto Standard For All Home Wine Enthusiasts With Recipes, Advice And Tricks.
 Tips And Secrets To Making Great Wine.
Learn How To Make Great-tasting, Crystal-clear Wine At Home!


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[01/01/1970, 02:00] Foodie: Six Course Tasting Event
Sun Mar 13th, 2005, Manhattan
foodie is a bi-monthly six-course food and wine tasting event based in New York City.


[05/16/2008, 07:00] McWilliam's Shiraz South Eastern Australia Hanwood Estate 2006
Light and juicy, with a dark, plummy note most present. Finishes smooth. Drink now. 85,000 cases made.
[05/06/2008, 00:09] Chill Weekend with Friends and Family
wodka manifesto

It’s been awhile since we really blogged. You know the original blog post, a wrap up of the blogger’s life and ideas that pop in their heads. Usually we write in a more educational manner trying our best to educate. Today is different. This weekend we had a perfect storm of visitors. Our old roommates from the good old days when we lived in Madrid were in town for the long weekend, which inevitably meant lots of fun foods and some unexpected card games of Liar. A wonderful weekend, as well as an opportunity throw down on a few meals since I had such an attentive audience. First night, it was port brined pork loin (that’s a mouthfull), followed by Country chicken paired with roasted purple potatoes and green beans with walnuts and cured ham the following night. Both meals deserved pictures and descriptions, but alas, the food disappeared before I had a chance. For those of you with a grill and some gumption, however, here’s how to cook the the Pork(everyone’s favorite)!

Combine in a large pot, or bucket, the following: 1 x3lb-5lb piece of whole pork loin, 1 bottle cheap Port wine(ruby), a few cloves, a few sticks of cinnamon, 2 bay leafs, a cup and a half of rock salt, a cup of sugar and half a nutmeg nut chopped coarsely. Cover the meat with cold water and let sit for approximately 8 hours.

When the meat has finished brining, get a very hot two stage fire going in your grill. Remove the pork from the brine and dry throughly. Quickly blacken the pork on the hot side of the grill, turning it so that the entire piece is all nice and charred. Then move the pork to the other side of the grill and place a lid on the grill. It should take about 30 minutes to cook, though it depends on your grill. Just keep an eye on it! When it’s done, let it rest for at least 10 minutes before cutting into thick chops. Enjoy!

Let me know if you try it out!

Saturday, we woke late, and Gabriella and I headed to a meeting with a small port producer who is looking to explore the world of Web2.0. Had a nice lunch filled with great conversation and plates of grilled sardines and shrimp along the sea. After several hours of excited banter back and forth, we’re already excited to visit their property in the middle of the Douro valley!

wodka manifesto

Saying our goodbyes, we then wandered our way along the coast filled with pale German and British bathers in the for the weekend, and into the center of the city to meet up with both our friends and my sister and brother-in-law visiting who were visiting from out of town. Our goal was to meander through the streets and enjoy a range of Tapas, which we succeeded in tackling rather quickly. The first place we stopped at had some of the finest “Bombas” drenched in a slightly spicy white sauce. Bombas are slightly spicy potato filled croquettes with bits of meat inside a crispy, fried bread shell. YuM!

Our second stop was a disappointment, though the food was quite good. We ended up in a place where the owner became too big of an influence on the ambiance, hovering around us, making awkward jokes just to fit in. That’s always tough, especially when you’d rather focus on your company than the waiter. How do you tell him to bugger off and just feed us some good food? The restaurant, Mam i Teca, wasn’t all bad, as the food was pretty good, but it may not be worth your while. Too small, uncomfortable seats and pushy service doesn’t really make up for a decent meal.

We did have fun though, and I had some nice pics result from the evening. Oh, and one new piece of information on my quest for Iberian Beer! I have a place to review. La Cerveceria located in the Gothic quarter is a serious beer joint that goes out of their way to bring good beer to Spain. I will be doing a full review shortly, but I just wanted to let everyone who was feeling badly for me know that I now have a Titan IPA, a Snakedog IPA, and a new Beligum that beer claiming to the be the Hoppiest beer of the them all! We’ll see! wodka manifesto

Ok, till soon,

Ryan

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wodka manifesto
[01/01/1970, 02:00] 20 Not So Penetrating Questions with Sam Spencer

I am a fan of Spencer-Roloson winery, so I sought out Sam Spencer for our “20 Not So Penetrating Questions for a Wine Craftsman.”

Sam and his partner Wendy Roloson produce high-end, affordably priced, small lot Rhone and Spanish style wines, mostly reds and a couple of delightful whites. 

Simply, these people get it. 

They sell in Indiana, which always engenders a boutique producer to me, because most others eschew distribution in the state without understanding the opportunity.  They sell Direct-to-Trade, a program that I helped initiate with Inertia Beverage Group; they are starting a blog and their positioning to market is, “Provocative Wines Evocative Dirt.” Oh, and this is on top of their wine line-up being fantastic from top to bottom.

But, Sam doesn’t stop there, in fact he has side projects, too.  His most recent project is the current Cameron Hughes “Hughes-Wellman” Cabernet. As a wine club selection and a slight one-off from the CH model, the $50 Cabernet with just 199 cases produced should go extremely fast.  Available now at this link.

Fortunately, Sam found a few spare moments to interview with us and our 20 questions … an economy of words and a spareness of detail makes this interview kind of like the subject—smart, to the point and without a lot of artifice.  Though, as a child of the 80’s and a viewer of late night Cinemax as a young teen, I do have to chuckle at his favorite movie genre.

Which of the Seven Deadly Sins are you most guilty of?

Sam: Lust mostly, pride in the balance

What is your biggest pet peeve?

Sam: Poor diction and improperly spoken English. Although I speak Spanish terribly and mangle that language daily.

Sam: Failing to keep your area/station clean

What is on your nightstand?

Sam:
James Salter: Last Night
John Mcphee : the founding Fish
Luca Turin: Perfume: the Guide

What is in your refrigerator or pantry that you would not openly admit?

Sam: Nothing

What do you drink when you are not drinking wine?

Sam: Tecate, Campari or Patron silver-rocks and lime

What type of music or radio station is played most often in your car?

Sam: KQED for news and KCRW via satellite for the best music in CA

In what era would you live if you transport yourself?

Sam: 100 years in the future

What is the best wine-related book you have read?

Sam: The Emperor of Scent by Chandler Burr and Assembling California by John Mcphee

The former is about the science of olfaction, scent and the perfume industry the latter is about the geology of CA put into lay terms with explanations

What is your favorite movie genre? 

Sam: 1970’s Soft-Porn

Is your desk messy or organized?

Sam: Both

Are you always early or terminally late?

Sam: Late

Whom would you want to play you in the movie about your life?

Sam: Jack Nicholson

What super-power would you most like to have, and why?

Sam: Super strength and endurance—Get more done with time to spare for hanging out with my family and friends

What do you do if you have a spare hour? 

Sam: Ride my road bike

What was the last great restaurant you ate at? 

Sam: Justus Drugstore in KC, MO and Momofuko-Ko in NYC.

What is your favorite ice cream flavor? 

Sam: Coffee

What is the best compliment you have ever received?

Sam: You are doing good work.

For additional reading, check out Alder Yarrow’s post on Spencer-Roloson.

[12/03/2006, 09:36] Wine buying tips in shops and distributors

When you're gazing at endless rows of wine and you have no clue what to buy, here some generalized tips that can help weed out the crap and allow you to make an educated guess:

1) Don't buy any wine that has dust on it. Chances are there is a reason it hasn't moved. It is either a horrible wine or its a terrible value.

2) If you only see a couple bottles of a particular wine left on the shelf, it may be worth trying. This could be an indication that people are buying it up like crazy and you just happened to walk in at the right time.

3) Read the back label for helpful flavor guides. Smart wineries include descriptions and food pairings. Those that don't have any indicators are anyone's guess as to how it will taste.

Hopefully these easy-to-remember tips will help those in need. Be smart. Use common sense. Don't blindly buy another bottle of vino without making at LEAST an educated guess. Cheers!

Posted by Ryan on Nov 26, 2006 2:45 pm


Comments: (post your comment)

[03/11/2008, 02:40] Subscription and book deal: it's back!

wodka manifestoLast year I ran a 'subscription and book deal' that a lot of people have been asking me to run again. The book last year was the Wine Hunter - this year it's the Why the French Hate Us: The Real Story of Australian Wine book. Once again I've slashed the price - it wasn't all that long ago that a new subscription to The Wine Front was $55, and the book retails for $28.95. And yet I am offering both a full year's subscription and the book for just $49.95, and that includes delivery of the book.

To take up the offer, click here. Just fill out the order form and get it back to me. If you need a heads up on the book itself, this form also includes some reviews. Or you could take a look here.

This offer will be available for two weeks only.
 

[01/01/1970, 02:00] Bordeaux's best cheese?
[11/22/2007, 14:52] Not Good with Turkey

This time of year the wine lover is inundated with T-day wine recommendations..."German Riesling is perfect with turkey"...."A Beaujolais is a sure bet on Thanksgiving"...."Burgundy, both red and white are ideal on your Thanksgiving".....etc. etc.

I for one am tired of staid poultry & stuffing wine pairing suggestions. 

How about something different to eat and drink on Friday - the day after turkey day?  May I suggest a Vermentino, not from the sardinian coast, but from Lodi, California.  Who knew the California version of this hefty-spicy-herby-citrusy grape could be so true to its Italian roots?  After racking up mo' mo' credit card debt on Friday, take the edge of with a plate of turkey enchiladas paired to Uvaggio Vermentino 2006 ($10).   It will be the best wine-food match you will sample all week.

wodka manifesto

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[05/14/2008, 07:00] Brown Moth Triggers Sonoma Vineyard Quarantine
Agriculture officials will inspect all grapes leaving area for infestation
[05/23/2007, 12:32] International Wine Challenge Medals announced

 Yesterday saw the announcement of the medal winners for the International Wine Challenge.

This year 9,358 wines were judged from 35 different countries, by 400 judges. The judges came from 19 different countries and included 33 Masters of Wine. 260 Gold medals were awarded, 1,129 wines won Silver medals and 1,839 wines won Bronze medals.

The top 3 medal winning nations remain the same as last year ? France, Australia and Italy. France scooped the most medals with a total tally of 635.  English wines continue to show improved form with 21 medals in 2007 up from 16 last year.

Of the UK Supermarkets Tesco stocks most medal winning wines whilst Sainsbury?s can claim the most GoldsWaitrose own-label wines won 3 Silver and 5 Bronze medals.

Here at Bottletalk HQ we’ll be sure to be trying a few of these award winners and letting you know what we think on the site.

[01/01/1970, 02:00] Bucko's Wine Reports: 100 new wines
With warm spring and summer days around the corner, our attention turns to crisp white wines and friendly reds. Randy "Bucko" Buckner reports on wines from $6 to $105, sure to fit any occasion and pocketbook.
[05/16/2008, 07:00] Markham Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley 2006
Bright citrus flavors--tangerine, Meyer lemon and lime--are effusive and fruity, with a hint of rose water, juicy acidity and a long, lingering finish. Drink now. 20,000 cases made.
[05/16/2008, 00:17] May 15, Friends of vinodiversity
A selection of wine related links
[12/01/2006, 09:36] In the realm of the senses

Virtues and Necessities
by Martin Field

Wine is all about the senses. About sensory evaluation, sensuality and consensual enjoyment. And wouldn't it be awful to lose your sense of taste, of smell, of touch, of sight?

It happens. Years ago, a wine-loving colleague went through a devastating course of chemotherapy to treat cancer and was cured. Afterwards he told me he had permanently lost his taste for wine. He sold his not inconsiderable cellar soon afterwards. Another friend had an operation on his nose that left him without a sense of smell. He'll drink a glass of wine with dinner but admits to being indifferent to its finer points.

I was reminded of this aspect of wine and the senses recently while listening to a wine expert banging on about the unimportance of colour in wine. If I heard him correctly, his thesis was that if the wine smelt and tasted good you shouldn't worry too much about its colour.

I couldn't disagree more. I love the colour of wine in the morning, or the evening. The crystal clear, green-hued glisten of a young riesling; the black cherry colour of a young shiraz; the vibrant inky purple of a Coonawarra cabern? [enough already! - Ed.] The visual appeal of wine in the glass is to me an unmissable part of wine drinking.

The banging on wine person finally admitted to being colour blind! They used to call this attitude making a virtue of a necessity.

And talking of sensory evaluation
Long due for reassessment is the ancient scoring system used at most Australian wine shows. The one where wines are scored out of 20 - with a possible three points (15%) awarded for appearance, seven (35%) for bouquet and ten (50%) for palate. Anyone who's ever had a cold will tell you that smell is probably the most important sensory sensation where wine is concerned. When people have colds they typically complain, ?I can't taste a thing.' What they really mean is, ?I can't smell a thing.' It's their noses that are blocked up - not their mouths.

I realise that many judges just award an intuitive score out of 20 rather than individually scoring each component and then adding up the total. Nevertheless, I'd re-jig the weighting thus: three points (15%) for appearance, nine (45%) for bouquet, five (25%) for palate and three (15%) for overall finesse and balance. Whether the scoring system is out of 20 or 100, or whatever, the percentage weighting would remain the same.

[01/31/2008, 08:00] Dispelling Wine Myths

wodka manifestoWith Valentine’s Day fast approaching, people will be uncorking bottles of wine the world over.  After all, when you think romance, wine is never far behind.  In her book, The Simple & Savvy Wine Guide, author Leslie Sbrocco suggests “a deep red wine such as a sparkling Shiraz” as the perfect drink to celebrate the occasion.  She also set about to dispel a few popular wine myths:

Myth:  A screw cap means the wine is cheap.
Fact: Some of the world’s most forward-thinking wineries are using screw caps these days.  They’re easy to open and reclose, and they preserve the wine longer.

Myth: Older wine is better.
Fact:  Most wine sold today isn’t meant to be aged.  If it’s from a reputable source, it’s safe to assume that it’s ready to drink.

[05/15/2008, 09:28] One More Taste Of Yellow...and Gremlins
wodka manifesto Firstly I'm having further problems with my blog which go back to the previous problems I had. Up until this morning everything  was working, then Typepad went down and when Typepad came back up  my blog decided to be silly. So you may have problems assessing a page and you will have a problem leaving a comment. If you remove the words "my weblog/" from the browser bar comments will work.

I hope to sort it out soon. It couldn't have happened at a worse time.

We have one more participant to A Taste Of Yellow.....and that brings us to a nice round number of 180. From Chuck in San Francisco at Sunday Nite Dinner the 180th entry is Spicy Corn Salad.  Sorry no photo at this point.


My email for contact is pinotgrisATgmailDOT com
[02/08/2008, 11:18] Giving the Gift of Wine

wodka manifestoUsually when people give a bottle of wine as a gift, it’s in one of those pricier velvet-style gift bags that get lost before it can get reused, or those metallic ones.  The folks at Random House are offering a new, unique alternative and, best of all, if won’t break the bank.

These Wine Lovers Gift Tags run $13 for a pack of 50, and come in various shapes and sizes and even include the ribbon for tying it to the wine bottle.  They might just add a little bit of humorous conversation to the next party to boot.

Photo from Random House.

[03/31/2008, 12:00] Shadow Stevens and the Wines of Scott Paul

wodka manifesto

Scott Paul Wines is a boutique winery dedicated to producing ultra-premium Pinot Noirs from the Willamette Valley of Oregon. Proprietor and winemaker, Scott Paul Wright, came to winemaking as a second career. For thirty years, he had a career in the radio and music industries. As a disc jockey, his handle was “Shadow Stevens” and those of you from the East Coast remember him well. His financial success in the music world allowed him to cellar and drink good wine from an early age. As the music business became more and more a corporate-driven industry, Scott lost interest in continuing in that field, and left to learn winemaking.

Under the mentorship of Greg Le Follette and others, and taking inspiration from Burgundy, he developed his winemaking skills. After ten vintages in Oregon, he is now very comfortable with his career change.

For more info on Scott Paul Wines: www.scottpaul.com

Sponsor: The Beaches of South Walton: www.beachesofsouthwalton.com

Click Below to Play the Show:

Show #195
(44:53 min 32 MB)
[01/01/1970, 02:00] Shopping news
[05/07/2008, 08:59] beaujolais: oh dear?
I recently made a few Beaujolais suggestions here. It appears from the ‘complaint’ below, that rather than recover their position and take a forward-looking view, they would rather wither and die… Jean-Paul Brun’s Beautiful 2007 Beaujolais l’Ancienne Denied the AOC Beaujolais! Can you imagine the stupidity! “Jean-Paul Brun just learned that 5,222 cases of Beaujolais [...]
[05/09/2008, 15:57] Etc! Etc!! Etc!!!
wodka manifestoWith the warm weather heading this way, a few words about white wines from Italy. Where I live, the next five months will be warm and warmer. Red wine can just be too heavy, as a daily regimen. Vegetables are coming to the table; lighter foods are appearing as well. I am turning to white wines.

wodka manifestoA few lately have come across the table.


Marco de Bartoli Grappoli del Grillo
wodka manifestoThis wine appeared on the table right before a dish of pesce crudo with grapefruit and wild greens. This Sicilian Grillo, from one of the great Marsala producers, is a bouquet of freshness. I was parched when this wine was poured into my glass, and I was blessed with a benediction of flavors, hinting at ?someday when I grow up I?m gonna be a Marsala.? Not a chance, this wine has famous grandparents, but it?s a thong and flip flop sandal set wine.


Bruno Giacosa Arneis
wodka manifesto?I?m going to order this wine because I don?t get Arneis.? was what my colleague at lunch confessed. What he meant, he elaborated, was that there is no defining style for this variety. I agree. I've had the Ceretto and the Pio Cesare recently in Piedmont and they were polar opposites. The Giacosa entry matched up well with fare served recently at the Landmarc in Tribeca. We had it with a fois gras terrine, followed by a grilled half chicken with mashed chickpeas and arugula. The wine is a sexy-delicate quaff, but paired with food it slipped into something a little more comfortable. Not just a one-night-stand kind of wine, more of a long-weekend fling. Very nice with the food, and on a wine list priced slightly above retail to encourage experimentation.


Falesco Est! Est!! Est!!!
wodka manifestoComing off a recent death march of a road trip, I headed straight from the airport to a reception. The last thing I wanted to do was drink wine. Water was what I needed and lots of it. But there was this little tray of white wine being passed around and I couldn?t be the speaker at a wine event only drinking water. I was pleasantly surprised when this wine splashed onto my palate. I wasn?t expecting much substance, what I got was a lingering memory of a delicate, understated wine with a striking aroma of sweet lilies. The flavor was a brisk jump into a fresh stream of nectarines and unripe green apples, sweet and tart not sinking to the bottom, floating down the course in an inner tube of contentment.


All Hail Texas Grapegrowers
If you want something else, a shameless plug for the trials and tribulations of extreme winemaking in Texas. Kim Pierce has written a fascinating article about a place that makes me want to go and see what they're are doing up in the High Plains, 4,000 feet above sea level. Check it out.

And, as they say in the Bronx, ?Chin-tann? y'all. I'm heading to the Met.

wodka manifesto



[01/01/1970, 02:00] Golf at the Belfry
[05/16/2008, 10:01] Symington Family Estates goes Organic
wodka manifesto

Big news in the steep Douro Valley! Symington Family Estates, owners of internationally renowned Port brands Dow?s, Graham?s, and Warre?s is converting their three Vilariça valley vineyards entirely to organic farming. Quinta do Atayde, Quinta de Assares and Quinta da Canada, consisting in total of 146 hectares, or 361 acres, will gain their official “organic” certification in two years time. However, an organic Altano red wine has already been made from the 7 ha fully certified as organic at the Quinta de Assares vineyard in 2007 that is currently in barrel and will be released later this year.

Having read this press release yesterday, what perplexed me was why these 146 hectares were chosen to be organic in their 900 ha. portfolio? What makes the Vilariça valley different? Like any successful business, the valley was chosen on the basis of location. As opposed to their vineyards banking the main Douro valley, the Vilariça valley enjoys colder winters and drier summers, in addition to schistous soils which allow for optimal draining. Couple this with an ideal pH range and balanced mineral nutrition in the soil that naturally produces low-yielding fruit, and you’ve got yourself a perfect spot for organic farming, or so Symington hopes.

Another interesting factoid to note is that Touriga Nacional accounts for only 3% of the total vineyards planted in the Douro Valley. 3%! Considering that this is one of the main grapes in your basic port blend, that statistic is a little shocking. And of that 3%, Symington can boast that Vilariça valley is organically growing 31% of all Touriga Nacional in the Douro. Not a bad marketing angle!

For the record, Touriga Francesa is the most widely planted grape in the Douro Valley.

That said, will this effect my buying patterns? When considering the global climate change, will I buy more Symington wines as a result of their “green” stance? Honestly, it depends on the quality of the wine. When the Altano is released, and I discover that it is a good bottle, of course I’ll endorse it. But if it’s not a good bottle of wine at a decent price, just because it’s an organic wine, doesn’t mean I’m going to suggest that you run out and buy it.

Are you swayed by Symington’s green efforts? When perusing your local wine shop, would you choose the organic versus the non-organic if quality and price are equal? Both Tom Wark and Catavino want to know wodka manifesto

Cheers,
Gabriella

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wodka manifesto
[04/21/2008, 12:00] The Wines of Dunn Vineyards

wodka manifesto

Beginning in 1979, Randy Dunn (then winemaker at Caymus) produced his first vintage of Cabernet from Howell Mountain fruit, arguably putting Howell Mtn on the map, and creating a demand from then on for “mountain-grown”
fruit from Napa Valley.

Join us as we talk with Kristina Dunn about her role as marketing director of the family business, the legendary long-lived Cabs made by her father, and what it was like growing up on Howell Mtn.

Sponsor: The Beaches of South Walton: www.beachesofsouthwalton.com

Click Below to Play the Show:

Show #197
(46:26 min 33 MB)
[04/19/2008, 06:28] Swiss Italian Festa at Daylesford
[05/04/2008, 14:34] Wine Bahs
wodka manifestoNew York
?The last time I saw a selection of wines this idiosyncratic was on a closeout list from a distributor,? somebody was heard to say, when talking about one of the many wine bars that have sprung up across the country.

Whether it is to find an outlet for those seldom seen wines, that do often languish in the corners of many a wholesaler?s warehouse, or if it is the result of a methodical search for a pure expression of wine, today?s wine lover need only to stumble into a wine bar. Or enoteca, as we say, on the wine trail.

Minutes before I was to do just that, I was in a clothing store that caters to young urbanites. On display were as many different T-shirt selections as I would soon be faced with when looking at the wine list. One shirt caught my attention. It read, ?Who the f*** is Mick Jagger??

An hour later, over a glass of Gruner, Mick would pass by our window, sans entourage.

30 minutes earlier I slipped into the wine bar, before my friends. Ordering up a glass of an Italian white, an Asprinio, it recalled a wine I had made a hundred years ago in California. Tangy fruit up front, a hint of volatility, not quite ready for oil and salad, but veering off in that direction. That?s OK with me in small doses. Italian whites, especially made in a rustic style, can be charming when that element is doled out judiciously. Civet in a perfume can be attractive, ask anyone who loves Chanel No.5.

Speaking of the rear end of a tomcat, I am sitting here struggling with terroir. My friend and I had an appointment with the owner of a wine bar, who walked in, and by, chatted up his staff, looked not in any direction at his clientele (one of which, wasn?t he supposed to rendevous with?), and headed back out the door.

Maybe it?s all those years I worked at being invisible when I photographed on the streets. Perhaps he is forgetful, though we met and spent time together, recently. I?m quite sure the success of his career has nothing to gain from knowing me.

All these thoughts, not just to excoriate the young lion for his comportment. More to my quest is this elusive search for recognizability in that thing we call terroir.

wodka manifestoI use a different word which comforts me and because I understand it better than terroir. Territoriality. Probably a made up word, but one which offers focus to a blurry scatter of opinions about the spirit of a place, which means something to us for a reason. Maybe it is because grapes grow there and unforgettable wine results. Or hands making memorable music. Perhaps it is because a certain potato flourishes there, exclusively, and from those potatoes a gnocchi (that I?ll never ever forget) of which I had three bowls, at lunch, in the Marche. Back there, in the dungeon of my memories.

As the forgetful proprietor hurried off to his more important task, my friend arrived with a colleague. We sat down to drink that bottle of Gruner, Mick hurrying off in the same direction as Mr. Oblivious. Everyone to their own T-shirt. Wine boss, rock hoss, jazz joss. Not yet, Thelonious, that?s coming, uptime, uptown. Later.

While the revolutionary T-shirts are brought to the table with a sampler of appetizers, we ordered another bottle, this time a red. I proceeded to blunder, thinking the name was printed on the list with a redundancy. My younger, more mentally agile colleague gracefully corrected me. Just so everyone knows, Italian wines, even to those who make a life study of them, have many, many names. This one, known as Lacrima di Morro d?Alba, just to make things interesting, is also not from Alba. Or anywhere near Piedmont. Look it up. Oh, and the winemakers sometimes use the Tuscan governo process, but it?s not from Tuscany. Got it?

About this time one of the observant ones at our table casually mentioned that Tom Waits just shuffled by, in the direction of William Burroughs old place. One of them is late. This is one helluva people-watching wine bar.

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Holiday wines with personalized labels



Laithwaites - Specialists in great value wine.

Terracotta Wine Cooler


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Price: 8.75 GBP
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