Calling hipster wine snobs! Have you noticed all of the 26-year-olds flouncing about Brooklyn with their noses stuck in glasses of Bordeaux, acting like Robert Parker if Robert Parker were the sort of doofus to ...

With Valentine’s Day fast approaching, people will be uncorking bottles of wine the world over.  After all, when you think romance, wine is never far behind.  In her book, The Simple & Savvy Wine Guide, author Leslie Sbrocco suggests “a deep red wine such as a sparkling Shiraz” as the perfect drink to celebrate the occasion.  She also set about to dispel a few popular wine myths:

Myth:  A screw cap means the wine is cheap.
Fact: Some of the world’s most forward-thinking wineries are using screw caps these days.  They’re easy to open and reclose, and they preserve the wine longer.

Myth: Older wine is better.
Fact:  Most wine sold today isn’t meant to be aged.  If it’s from a reputable source, it’s safe to assume that it’s ready to drink.

Alice Feiring....You GO!

I think it's great that the San Francisco Chronicle and the LA Times would give Alice a fairly large stage to bitch and moan about California wine not being to her tastes and the contention that a single, Maryland-based Palate is the reason for her California Discontent.

Alice is in the midst of promoting her new book that takes the art of bitching and moaning into a book length format. Feiring's "The Battle for Wine and Love: or How I Saved the World from Parkerization" has a whimsical looking cover design that might just as easily be translated to a publishing effort on how pandas and tulips can save the world. But it seems behind the happy cover lies another approach:

"Join her as she sets off on her one-woman crusade against the tyranny of homogenization, wine consultants, and, of course, the 100-point scoring system of a certain all-powerful wine writer."

Just for the record there is no tyranny of Homogenization in the world of CA wine. There is only disappointment that most wines don't appeal to one's palate. It's also true that Alice's call for more "natural" winemaking and "natural" wines is really just a a reflection of her philosophy of life and not a critique of winemaking. It's highly doubtful she or most others could consistently identify wines that are made with and without "natural" winemaking techniques.

Still, I love to see Alice, this artful writer, make a full frontal assault on those wineries and critics who like to drink and make wines that don't appeal to her. There is a passion here that transcends and makes secondary work of the disappointment that is at the heart of her recent screeds and editorials. It's good writing, it's controversial, it engages the reader and it demonstrates that the politics of preference is alive and well in the world of wine.

As I read the good news today that the California Supreme Court overturned the law prohibiting same-sex marriage, I saw similarities between Feiring's position that California wine should be more subdued and natural and the opponents of the California Supreme Court ruling who believed marriage should be what it always was, between a man and a woman. Both Alice and the conservative, anti-gay camp believe there has been some brainwashing going on. But in the long run, both the opponents of same sex marriage and Alice will lose their battles. America is not, and never was, a place where traditions were forceful enough to squash the aspirations of those who choose to simply do what they want as long as it's not hurting anyone.

The big, bold wines that Alice believes are imitations of what real wine should be will be with us forever and will continue to be made because California's climate allows this as does technology, and because other people like them. But she should take take heart. There will always be Cathy Corisons, Steve Edmunds, Stony Hills and many, many others who, if Alice wants to seek them out, will demonstrate that there is no winemaking region in the world more diverse in the style of wines it produces than California.

UPDATE:
Nice review of Feiring's New Book at The Women's Wine Critic Blog.

Virginia Wine Country - 24 August 2006

Fine Wine Ideas for Valentine's Day - 14 February 2007

Weekend of Food & Wine in Sonoma - 23 April 2007

May Wine Events - 01 May 2008

At any rate, the MAN 2005 Pinotage, sourced from Perdeberg Hills (Coastal), is a very pleasant surprise. I remember being in London last year, trying many of the paltry £4,99 South African wines available in major supermarkets. Small clarification?I?ve had very nice supermarket selections there, though I wasn?t lucky enough to stumble upon wines like these?unexpectedly balanced and satisfying for the price-point ($5.99). If you must buy a wine this inexpensive, you?d always hope for a comparable standard. Unlike some of the other cheaper reds which gratuitously used terms such as ?barrel-aged? on the back-labels, MAN openly discloses their use of oak staves for maturing part of the wine, in addition to fining and filtering. As I mentioned before, you can read the technical sheets on their website. Now, for the sake of consistency, if I can just get my hands on the other wines in their line?wouldn?t it be something if the other varieties were quaffable at $5.99?

Visual/Aromatic Profile: Medium ruby with translucent edges in the glass. The nose is clean, with pronounced intensity of the predominant red fruit (red cherry & plum), soft earth, spice and minerality.

Texture and Finish: Dry, with medium acidity, medium tannin and high body. Bold plum and red cherry sweetness are accompanied by pepper, spice and stony minerality. The spices, minerality and soft earth lead into the interesting medium finish.

One of my accounts handed me this wine review, written up by a former employee. "She wasn't all there..." they noted, and went on to say she'd find reviews online and cut and paste without actually reading them. This little gem was up for quite a while until horrified customers noted that they wouldn't buy the wine because the description was so off-putting. I, however, find it to be brilliant and would love to partake in the Ecstatic Singing Mantra whenever it transpires. So I searched for wine reviews of Jest Red online, and apparently, most of this review appeared on A Little Vino Would Be Keeno. Which is clearly now my favorite site. Ever.

"Blended from seven noble grape varietals, the nose is deeply perfumed with wild dewberries, Himalayan breeding musk, and horehound candy, while the flavors, so titillating they may only be disclosed in the Ecstatic Singing Mantra. Pair with beef, pork, pasta with red sauce, cheese or chocolate, or go wild and have it with pizza, burgers or even burritos!"

I'm not quite sure which is the best part of that - is it the Himalayan breeding musk or the pairings? It's sublime on so many levels.

GrapeRadio has once again been selected as a finalist by the James Beard Foundation for an award in the category of Video and Webcasting.

Click here to access the video that was nominated: Stewards of the Land

The James Beard Foundation Awards are the nation?s preeminent honors for culinary professionals. More than 60 awards are given out each year in the categories of cookbooks, restaurants and chefs, design and graphics, broadcast media, journalism, and achievement. Nominees and award winners are selected by their industry peers, with more than 600 culinary professionals involved in the voting process.

Thank you to all of our fans who have given us such great support over the years.

For those who have been around the wine blog-o-sphere for a few years, the Caveman's blog was a gem.  Bill Z. offered world class wine knowledge with a down-to-earth attitude.  Like many blogs (this one included) the Caveman posted less regularly, and then poof!  it became frozen in time (kind of like Han Solo in Empire). 

Well, my pal Bill, the Caveman, is back and writing for the Montreal Gazette.  It's good to see his voice is being appreciated by those lucky folks in Quebec.

"It was my first evening back working the floor as a sommelier. I was invigorated after an exceptional week touring and tasting wine in France's Languedoc-Roussillon.
My second table that night was a couple from France, so I started going on and on about the place, even recommending to them one of my favourite wines from the region. They looked at me and said, "Yes, it's beautiful there, but we would never drink their wines."

Read the rest of the column here.

Good on ya Bill!

If you're not a subscriber to The Wine Front you don't get to see the reviews that are added to the site on most days. In the past seven days the following wines have been reviewed in the Subscriber Only section of this website.

All Saints Estate Chardonnay Viognier 2006
All Saints Estate Family Cellar Marsanne 2006
All Saints Estate Sangiovese Cabernet 2006
All Saints Estate Shiraz 2006
All Saints Estate Durif 2006
All Saints Estate Family Cellar Durif 2006
Aradon Rioja 2006
Casa Santos Lima Quinta Das Setencostas 2005
d'Arenberg Galvo Garage Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Petit Verdot 2006
Dog Point Vineyard Marlborough Chardonnay 2006
Dog Point Vineyard Marlborough pinot Noir 2006
Dog Point Vineyard Marlborough Section 94 2006
Grapes of Ross Barossa Valley Black Rose Shiraz 2006
Grapes of Ross Barossa Valley Old Bush Vine Grenache 2006 
Henry Pelle Menetou Salon 2006
Les Nuages Organic Touraine Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Lethbridge Geelong Shiraz 2005
Longview Adelaide Hills Devils Elbow Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Maison Champy Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2005
Mount Horrocks Clare Valley Shiraz 2005
Piana del Sole Salento Negroamaro 2004
Postcode 2320 Reserve Shiraz 2004
Postcode 2587 Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Punt Road Yarra Valley Shiraz 2005
Punt Road Yarra Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Rymill Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Scorpiiion Barossa Valley Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2006
Scorpiiion Barossa Valley Shiraz 2006
Scorpiiion Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
The Berrio Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Torbreck Barossa The Struie Shiraz 2006
Torbreck Run Rig Shiraz 1995
Torbreck Run Rig Shiraz 1996
Torbreck Run Rig Shiraz 1997
Torbreck Run Rig Shiraz 1999
Torbreck Run Rig Shiraz 1998
Torbreck Run Rig Shiraz 2001
Torbreck Run Rig Shiraz 2002
Torbreck Run Rig Shiraz 2003
Torbreck Run Rig Shiraz 2004
Torbreck Run Rig Shiraz 2005
Tramin Alto Adige Pinot Grigio 2006
Villa terlina Gradale Barbera d’Asti 2004 ($35)
Voyager Estate Margaret River Cabernet Merlot 2004

For subscription details to The Wine Front click here.

The passionate Alice Feiring and her new book, The Battle for Wine and Love, have fanned the flames of the natural winemaking debate. In particular she has bruised the feelings of the California wine industry, to which she has not been very complimentary. This has resulted in some lively back and forth on the side of the Californians in The Los Angeles Times, hardly a surprising forum for the pro-California view. I applaud Alice’s spirited attack on industrial wines and support of wines with personality and a sense of place. Her intensity has helped keep the debate a debate.

Extreme positions help sell books and it looks like Alice has done a good job in riling up the Californians and keeping her book in the headlines. I’m sure if the truth came out Alice, like me, has a long list of California wines she loves.

It’s becoming the spoofulators vs. the natural movement and the main spoofulators seem to be in California. Yet this raises the question of what’s really natural or not and at what point the line is crossed from one to the other. It’s not as clear as it may seem. At some point it is just as bad to do too little to the wine as it is to do too much. Bad wine is bad wine, natural or not.

Let’s take a look at the revered (I agree) wines of Josko Gravner in northeastern Italy on the border with Slovenia. Gravner ferments and ages his white wines on the skins and seeds for six or seven months in terra cotta amphorae coated with beeswax. This has a somewhat dramatic (to say the least) impact on the flavor and color of his wines. Is this natural winemaking or a kind of natural spoofulation? The wines of Gravner are extreme wines manipulated to that style by the hand of the winemaker. Are the techniques of Clark Smith more intrusive than this? I’m not sure this is a question that has been answered.

There are a few buzzwords out there that seem to define the natural wine forces: biodynamic, indigenous yeasts, little or no sulfur and never, never any machines.  Yet there are a whole array of interventions other than these that winemakers impose on their wines either because they dream of crafting great art like Gravner or because they are commercial winemakers that must put out a good tasting stable wine year-after-year to keep their jobs. It seems a bit preposterous to return to primitive methods of winemaking that more-often-than-not have the potential to produce faulted wines. Not all progress is inherently bad and any good winemaker will do everything needed to improve their wines. Many winemakers resolve this conflict between their desire to be part of the natural movement and the realities of putting better wine in the bottle by forgetting to talk about certain things when they talk to the press.

Great wines are made, they don’t just happen. That’s why they call them winemakers. There is an incredible array of tools and knowledge available to today’s winemakers. To not make use of any of these tools and techniques does not make any sense. However, what you do with these many new tools is all important. You can’t make wine without manipulation, but without a doubt you can’t make great wine with with over-manipulation. I believe in terroir. I have tasted it in wines way to often to have any doubt.  As long as a winemakers manipulations are designed to enhance that terroir I don’t have any problems with them.

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Quite an unusual combination for the Balkans, since Syrah is fairly rare in the region. Skovin is probably trying to follow the world commercial trends with this Syrah Cabernet Sauvignon combination, and it’s not doing a bad job. Syrah brings in the spiciness and the earthy taste, which brings memories of those strong South African tastes of Syrah wines. Cabernet softeness it a bit, so overall it’s a nice wine, but distinctively dryer than the famous Australian Syraz-Cabernet’s.

Rating: 6/10
Price: 400 RSD (5 euro)
Retailer: Super Vero

Technorati Tags: Macedonian Wine, Skovin, Shiraz, Syrah, Syrah Cabernet

I somehow weaseled my way into a Vegan cooking class this weekend to give a talk about organic wines. Shameless self/company promotion? Why do you ask!

SO, if you have nothing to do between 1:30 and 3 on Sunday, December 2nd, feel free to register to learn how to cook all sorts of yumminess (which is, apparently, a heavily-used wine descriptor) sans animals or animal by-products. I don't claim to be vegan (as the mountain of cheese in my belly can attest) but I do agree with the principles of it all.

Anys.

Come to Shakti Yoga Studio at 220 Lexington Ave this Sunday to hear me and to get your vegan feedbag on. I think it's $20 per person. Call 716 884 YOGA to register. I'll be the one with a cork in my hand stinking of butter.

“Wine guru Parker says he’s happy with a $20 bottle,” blared a Reuters headline from a Tokyo stop on Robert Parker’s Asian trip. Yay! Before heading to a $3,000-a-head tasting dinner, he suggested to locals that it was OK to drink Beaujolais Nouveau, zinfandel starting at $18, and malbec from Argentina.

But buried in the story, Parker said, “You hear the argument you can’t go through a museum and say, ‘The Monet gets a 90 and the Cezanne gets 88.’ But there is a general consensus to what is good wine. I’m not trying to replace your taste, or the person buying the wine…”

Really? Unlike Parker, I find few “good” examples of Beaujolais nouveau (cru Beaujolais is an entirely more rewarding category, however). And some tasting panels can’t agree on what constitutes “good” either: Consider the recent Times panel on Soave where one taster said ”I was shocked at how many of the wines I didn’t like” to which Eric Asimov replied, “Needless to say, I disagreed.” Consensus? And, as a further example, I doubt Parker and Alice Feiring would have many overlapping examples of “good” wines. When have you not agreed with someone else about a wine’s being “good”?

Speaking of lack of consensus, it’s also sometimes hard to determine what is “typical” as a portion of Jean-Paul Brun’s Beaujolais has been denied the appellation, ostensibly for being atypical. Or, in his case, good.

I know Lincoln has a bottle of this wine and we are both interested to see what the other thinks. Calibration and all that. I was supposed to wait but I can’t. I never could. I always used to search the house for my Christmas presents as a kiddy too. Anyway, on the basis of this tasting I am pretty keen to see what the 2005 shiraz looks like. It must be pretty sharp. Sorry about the photo…our camera is on holiday in San Diego at the moment.

Aroams of cherry, raspberry, earth, empty dark chocolate box, licorice, eucalypt and some vanilla cedar oak. On the palate medium bodied with flavours of sweet cherry, blackberry, raspberry, earth, licorice and minty cedar oak. The tannins are fine, dry and refreshing. Finishes dry and savoury with raspberry and dark chocolate flavours. It looks much better and more together on the second day of tasting. Enjoyed this greatly.