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[03/03/2008, 11:45] The Italian treasure-house of grapes

Publication: Grape | 3 March 2008

Author: Angela Lloyd

Some wines from indigenous varieties, recommended by Angela Lloyd

solo wineWhen wine statistics are trotted out, Italy always arrives somewhere at the top of the global list: third in area under vine (849 000 hectares in 2004), second in wine produced (5 300 000 000 litres) and per capita consumption (46.50 litres). Another figure that would also leave many other countries in its wake is the number of indigenous grape varieties in this land of the long boot.
 
Of course, the ubiquitous international quintet of cabernet, merlot, shiraz, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc are also found in Italian vineyards, but the country's real strength lies in its lesser known varieties, many producing wines of great individuality and distinction.
 
Such varietal diversity is as much due to Italy's geography as its history. Wine grapes are grown from 47º North, near the Swiss and Austrian borders and close to the Alps, all the way to 37º South, on the sun scorched island of Sicily, in climates both continental and Mediterranean. Historically, the Greeks, the mysterious Etruscans and of course the Romans themselves have all helped to develop the varietal mix.
 
The good news is that the Italians have now realised the worth of these grapes, from both quality and marketing points of view and much more is being done to promote the wines made from them.
 
Fortunately for South Africans, there are several good examples available here. Before recounting a few I tasted recently courtesy of importers Stefano Gabba and his son, Lorenzo, who run Melgab International, a word on the Italian system of naming the origin of its wines.
 
The DOC ? Denominazione di Origine Controllata ? system is modelled on the French Appellation Contrôlée. This set of regulations covers such aspects as viticulture, winemaking and labelling. As with the French AOC, place names rather than grape names often appear on the label, the variety or varieties being implicit in such place name.
 
Less confusing is the Italian culture of enjoying wine with food, thus their focus is on creating food friendly rather than show winning wines.
 
The following quartet is a small representation of worthwhile examples of the lesser known Italian varieties available here.
 
Cantina Lunae Bosoni Colli di Luni Vermentino 2006 12% R95.19
The Colli di Luni is a DOC on the Ligurian coast just to the east of Genoa. Both white and red grapes are grown there; the whites based on vermentino with up to 10% other white grapes. This example has presence without showiness in its firm, fresh structure, good flavour intensity, without being overtly fruity, and dry finish. As its coastal situation suggests, vermentino and seafood are natural partners.
 
La Giustiniana Gavi di Gavi DOCG Lugarara 2006 R99.75
The 'G' in DOCG stands for Garantita, its purpose to identify the finest Italian wines ? 'guarantee' as opposed to merely 'control'. If it has gained credibility in the few number of DOCG's awarded, some have been seriously questioned, but overall it does confer an image of quality where awarded. The town and DOCG of Gavi are on hilly slopes in south east Piedmont, just to the north of the Ligurian coast. Cortese, the only grape permitted, was originally used as a base wine for Asti Spumante. As a solo act, under the Gavi di Gavi nomenclature, it rose to fame in the 1960s, in the process becoming Italy's most expensive dry white wine. Burton Anderson's Wine Atlas of Italy describes the it as having a 'clearly refined scent and acutely dry flavour with pronounced acidity countered by a vague sensation of fruit.' Elegant La Giustiniana's fragrance combines flowers and herbs; its fine, mineral acidity lends a lightness of touch, and it does indeed end bone dry, and has just 12% alcohol. Again, it is the ideal partner for Mediterranean's seafood bounty.
 
Damilano Barbera d'Alba 2006 R118
The red barbera is known in South Africa, mainly from the version produced by Durbanville winery, Altydgedacht, although now it also features on the lists of another two or three cellars. It enjoys much greater popularity in Italy, where it was the third most planted red variety in 2000. It is best associated with Piedmont, where it comes second only to nebbiolo in terms of quality. Characteristically high in acid and low in tannin, the black cherry/berry fruit is fresh and succulent, spiced by the pointed acid. The Damilano family, whose barbera vines are between 30 and 50 years old, follow a traditional style, aging the wine in older, large wood, which focuses on the wine's mouthwatering qualities and leaves it ready to be opened now. This is a delicious example that should go well with any spicy or rich dishes where the richness will benefit from the wine's cutting fruity acids.
 
Mastroberadino Radici Taurasi Riserva DOCG 2000 R269.04
Some of my favourite Italian wines come from the great red grape of Campania, aglianico (a corruption of Ellenico, the Italian word for Hellenic). Its worth is acknowledged beyond provincial borders: the 2003 version of this example of it has recently been voted one Italy's 50 greatest wines, as selected by 19 global authorities on Italian wine. A remarkable achievement, given the Mastroberadino family was the only producer to market an aglianico until the early 1990s, but they have been in the forefront of championing Campanian varieties for ten generations. Two important features account for aglianico's success in Campania: the volcanic soils (Vesuvius is a favourite tourist destination), and the vicinity of Taurasi, which lies around 500 metres above sea level on the elevated spine that runs down the centre of the country. Aglianico is an imposing wine, especially in its youth when it is noted for its fine, if ferocious, tannins, a feature which can see it age for decades. This Radici ? single vineyard ? remains youthfully stern, its characteristic fresh acid backbone focusing and lengthening the deep scents and savoury flavours of plums, tobacco and bitter chocolate. Despite its current austerity, a game dish or mature hard cheese should show off its great potential. With the Rand weakening, it also offers value for money. Patience will be well rewarded!
 
Prices quoted are wholesale, including VAT. If you find these available retail, expect to pay 30+% more. Click here for the Melgab website.

» Full Story

Wines Offered

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Colli Di Luni Vermentino DOC
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Gavi Di Gavi DOCG Lugarara
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Barbera D'Alba DOC
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Radici Taurasi Riserva DOCG



[10/22/2007, 07:28] The Hunt for October Red

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Click for a larger picture of these bottles.

The hunt for October red has turned up a whole lot of alternatives. Here are four to get the week off on the right track. I love them all and have repeated them in search of my favorite. I can't say which is best because they're all top notch, each perfect for the season, and each priced at about $15 or under per bottle. Two are from Spain, continuing on my October theme; one is French and one from Washington State. Perhaps the balance of the month will turn up something from California.

Eric Soloman's European Cellars is an importer many people trust. It's like a seal of approval for any Spanish wine in the eyes of many value conscious Americans. Eric brings us Capçanes Mas Donís Montsant Red 2004 ($15) and Mas Que Vinos Ercavio Tempranillo Roble 2005 ($13). Both are deep purple in the glass, but the Ercavio has more of an unfiltered appearance, showing some haziness under a halogen beam.

Mas Donís 2004 is mostly old-vine Grenache (80% Grenache with 20% Syrah) and has a perfumed black cherry nose with teaberry and hints of pencil lead. The body is medium, the flavor's tart and the mouth feel is moderately tannic. The cherry fruit along with some vanilla flavors come together nicely in the dusty dry finish. The only thing I don't like is the plastic cork. Why must anyone use that blasted plastic cork? Alcohol content: 14%.

Ercavio Tempranillo 2005 spent 5 months in French American oak and has a lovely aroma of black raspberry, loganberry and apple pie spice, plus the scent of a tobacco shop. Lush and fruit forward, this is what I would describe as a masculine comfort wine, and it would pair perfectly with a cheeseburger. The closure is a Nomacork*. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Jean-Philippe Bourgeois was the General Manager for Eric Solomon for 6 years, and now he is bringing French values to the American market. Château Capion 1C Rouge 2005 (Vin de Pays de l'Hérault, $13) is a blend of 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Franc, 15% Merlot and was barrel aged for 14 months. That sounds like a recipe for a great Bordeaux but this gem of a red comes from further south. Still you get the deep purple color and aromas of black currants, dark berries and hints of vanilla. The rich blackberry cobbler flavors envelop the mouth in a far reaching luscious dry finish.

The Magnificent Wine Company is the mass-production wing of K Vintners of Walla Walla, Washington. KV is the project of Charles Smith who brings us such magnificent wines as "The Creator". You might walk right past House Wine 2005 ($11) due to the rather "in your face" and non-standard graphics on the label. You might mistake it for a generic red blend but it's anything but. The blend is 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 11% Syrah, 3% Malbec and 2% Cabernet Franc. Here's another ideal Bordeaux blend, and the latitiude is virtually the same as Bordeaux. The resulting aromas and flavors are much better than the average house wine, with dark berry flavors and aromas, resolving nicely in to a lush dry finish that echoes the virtues of barrel aging. The closure is a real cork. Alcohol content: 13.9%.

*The Nomacork is a composite resin artificial cork that is similar to the Neocork, but the Nomacork brand is much more popular in terms of units sold.

[10/19/2007, 20:23] Old Wine Bloggers Never Die, They Just Write for the Gazette

For those who have been around the wine blog-o-sphere for a few years, the Caveman's blog was a gem.  Bill Z. offered world class wine knowledge with a down-to-earth attitude.  Like many blogs (this one included) the Caveman posted less regularly, and then poof!  it became frozen in time (kind of like Han Solo in Empire). 

Well, my pal Bill, the Caveman, is back and writing for the Montreal Gazette.  It's good to see his voice is being appreciated by those lucky folks in Quebec.

"It was my first evening back working the floor as a sommelier. I was invigorated after an exceptional week touring and tasting wine in France's Languedoc-Roussillon.
My second table that night was a couple from France, so I started going on and on about the place, even recommending to them one of my favourite wines from the region. They looked at me and said, "Yes, it's beautiful there, but we would never drink their wines."

Read the rest of the column here.

Good on ya Bill!

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(Aww Bill you look like Big Parks!)

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solo wine solo wine solo wine solo wine solo wine solo wine solo wine solo wine
[10/19/2007, 03:07] Demi delicious
Half bottles of wine are great, at least in principal. They are a perfect way to prevent having to deal with left over wine. I am delighted to find them in restaurants, as it gives me a chance to sample more than one wine through a meal.

All life it seems is a compromise. With half bottles you get great benefits, but there is the inevitable downside. A half bottle of wine is more prone to environmental circumstance. In other words, it goes bad more easily.

I have been in a position of late to try many half bottles in a row (I am temporarily single). These have been bottles of my favorite wines, and I was delighted to find them in 375s. The delight turned to disappointment, repeatedly, as one after the other was in some way less than I expected.

The smaller size means that any heat or vibration damage has a greater impact. It is the inverse of why Magnums are the perfect sized bottles for aging wine. Small bottles also tend to not fit well in wine racks, unless you plan for them in advance.

I am not saying that all half bottles are likely to be bad, far from it. My spate of bad luck can be attributed to the fact that I bought all of the wines from the same place. Whatever ruined the first bottle, probably was responsible for the downfall of the others as well.

I have had better luck in the past, and I am far from swearing off half bottles. I just thought it was important to point out that a bad half bottle or two is no reason to swear off the size in general.

Ask for half bottles in restaurants, let them know you are interested. This will help propagate them in the industry, so if your favorite restaurant doesn't have any half bottles now, perhaps they will in the future.

Wine by the glass in a restaurant is a great concept, but too often poorly implemented. If the bottle has been open too long the wine will be much worse than the little variation a half bottle may be prone to.

Speaking of restaurants, I love starting with a half bottle of Champagne. Then a half bottle of white wine followed by a half bottle of red, and perhaps even a half bottle of dessert wine to finish it off. This is ideal for two, but even for the solo diner 2 or more half bottles can still be ideal. Remember, no one said you have to finish all of the wine! By the way, I send my left over wine to the Chef - the kitchen rarely gets a tip.





 



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