Perhaps it is serendipitous that my Amazon.com purchase of Alice Feiring’s new treatise, The Battle for Wine and Love, came at approximately the same time that I pulled the cork on a winery sample from Cooper Mountain Vineyards.

Feiring’s book is a broadside against technology in winemaking and the Cooper Mountain “Mt. Terroir” is as about as natural of a wine as they come.

(Cooper Mountain) Mountain Terroir (Five Elements Pinot Noir) is a blend of some of the best grapes harvested from our three vineyards sites (Grabhorn & Meadowlark & Johnson School). Singled out in individual barrels for aging, the contents of this bottle have been carefully brought together to convey what we hope to be the best expression of Cooper Mountain’s terroir, of our environment.

And, frankly, you have to love a winery that produces only 90 cases of a biodynamic Pinot Noir Cuvee from estate-grown grapes and they decide to sample some to the blogosphere.  It is a bold choice and demonstrates an incredible insight into old-world winemaking technique and the new market dynamics of the modern day. And, it helps that it is a fantastic wine. 

I feel like I was a part of an experiment.  Ostensibly, this sampling was a litmus test by Cooper Mountain.  The wine is certified organic and biodynamic, fermented with native yeasts.  They wanted to know whom the rube is, who does not “get it.”

It is not hard to “get” this wine.  And, in parallel to Feiring’s book, it is not hard to see the immediate point of natural winemaking.

Of all the biodynamic wines that I have tasted, each of them has expressed a certain “it” factor.

Now, mind you, just like NFL quarterbacks, it is very difficult to describe what “it” is.  Sometimes you just know it when you see “it.” The liveliness, the je ne sais quoi … the LeBron James or the Peyton Manning factor at work, as opposed to the merely good, at the highest level.

Biodynamics wine is a controversial subject, some view it as poppycock, a skepticism about some of the mysticism. 

Here’s where I come down on BioD wines – there’s room enough in the world all variants of winemaking, but it’s hard to argue with what frequently gets delivered in the bottle.  BioD wine is hard to describe, but you know “it” when you taste “it.”

That is a point that Alice Feiring argues and Cooper Mountain delivers.

My review is found here.

Susana helped me think outside the box?Susana Balbo, that is. One of Argentina?s premier winemakers, her Syrah-Bonarda blend is one of various compelling examples of her brilliance. It?s an intelligent value steal and as a bonus, it is meant to be consumed more or less young. Argentine Syrah as a whole doesn?t get all of the credit that it deserves?combined with the second most planted red, Bonarda, you get this beauty, with meaty tannins and lots of dark fruit/red fruit complexity. My favorite aspect of this one revolved around the irresistible, concentrated plum, cherry and black raspberry flavors, with the Bonarda contributing the nice red berry acidity. The oak and warm spices are a great, subtle backbone that won?t overwhelm with one of those cheap death-by-vanilla finishes. As with a great deal of grapes harvested from the Andean foothills (elev. about 2300ft), both components of this 50/50 blend were hand-harvested from vines in Mendoza?s Rivadavia department that are on average, 40 years old.

What a wonderful blend to try with grilled meats now that the weather is improving. Yet another excellent example that shows what finesse Mendoza blends can have without Malbec involvement.

Susana Balbo?s Crios wines are made available by Vine Connections, the premier boutique Argentine wine importer out of San Francisco. If you?re having trouble finding it in your area, try Wine-Searcher or the importers themselves.

I attended an event the other night hosted by one of our local public radio stations, KAZU, and one of my favorite culinary celebrities – Lynne Rosetto Kasper—at Mary Pagan’s Culinary Center of Monterey. The food was prepared by Mary Pagan’s students and was delicious and well-conceived (as usual), and the folks who attended were a delight. Someone asked me the question of “How do I find Pinots that I like?” Good question.

These days, the field of Pinot Noir can be truly daunting and amazing at the same time [how does one pick one off a store shelf?]. Within only a decade, the Pinot Noir winemaking industry has undergone an incredible change—new folks have entered the industry, new vineyards, clones, rootstocks have been planted on new sites all over the state, new wineries and labels have popped up like Google ads, and [most importantly] a gamut of styles of Pinot Noir has developed. The range of Pinot Noir, as I see it starts on one end with a typically “light” style: light in color and weight. These wines are usually very aromatic with these aromas: cherries, strawberries, rhubarb, roses, spices. These wines will often be described as “elegant”. Then there are the middle weights. These have a darker hue—ruby to garnet and usually display darker fruit character—blackberry, black cherry, plums. These usually display a medium-weight, greater texture and nice finish. These might have a little more extracted tannin. Then there are the heavy weights. Plums, black currants, blueberries are the fruits, and many of these wines might display tobacco, cigar, coffee characters as well. These are “big” wines and are normally heavily-extracted and might have been aged in a high-percentage of new oak as well. Dark, deep , rich are some of the descriptors used.

The ongoing debate regarding Pinot Noir in the wine industry these days is about what style is “true” to Pinot’s nature? How much influence does/should a winemaker have on a wine vs. the effects of the growing conditions and vineyard site? What style of Pinot Noir is appropriate for the marketplace?
The way I see it, live and let live. I don’t personally prefer all styles of Pinot Noir, but there are those who do. There is basically a style of Pinot Noir for almost every wine drinker out there—whether it is the entry level wine consumer, an experienced wine aficionado, someone who normally prefers whites, or a consumer that would usually choose Cabernet and thank goodness for that. The vibrancy of our industry depends upon the varied tastes of our customers because nowadays there’s as many different wines out there as there are clouds in the sky or cowboys in a cattle drive. That’s why it’s so easy to get lassoed by Pinot Noir…..[heck, I’m not only lassoed, I’ve been hog-tied and branded, too….yippee aye yea ]

So, getting back to answering the question—“How do I find a Pinot I like?” Here’s some advice: 1. Try a lot of Pinot Noir. Join a tasting group or create one yourself. These groups allow one to try a wide variety of wines without gutting one’s pocketbook. 2. Talk to the folks at the winery; find out what their philosophy and preferences are. If they match yours, then you just might like the wines. 3. Investigate wine critics. There are the usual suspects in print, but there are also many folks online who are reviewing wine offering more variety of opinions. Look at what they like. If they like similar wines to those you enjoy, it might be worth your while to seek out their recommendations. 4. I’ve said this before, but will say it again: trust your palate. It’s not a good wine unless you like it, and that’s all that counts.

The wines of France’s Bordeaux region have long been a benchmark for quality due to a combination of tradition, terroir and mystique. William Echikson’s “Noble Rot: A Bordeaux Wine Revolution” attempts to lift the veil and show the inside of the Bordeaux wine trade which makes for some fascinating reading.

Mr. Echikson is the Brussels bureau chief for Dow Jones Newswires and a wine columnist for the Wall Street Journal Europe but his narrative here stays closer to the business side of things in his account of the 2001 growing season. Along the way, we are introduced to the movers and shakers of the Bordeaux wine scene, including critic Robert Parker, consulting winemaker Michel Rolland and garagiste Michel Gracia, but the central story is of the Lur-Saluces family of Chateau d’Yquem.

The wines of Chateau d’Yquem are well known to wine lovers as the standard-bearer of Sauternes, the late harvest desert wine made in Bordeaux. The fungus on the grapes, known as “noble rot”, concentrates the juice making the resulting wine lusciously concentrated and sweet but still has plenty of acidity to make you come back for more. My own experience with d’Yquem is nothing short of phenomenal; this is one of those wines you want to just keep your nose in the glass for hours at a time.

As it turns out the Lur-Saluces family is as complex as their wines and much of Noble Rot is devoted to telling their somewhat tragic story. While interesting, I found this part of the book a bit gossipy and liked the vignettes of other characters in Bordeaux better. But at just under 300 pages, Noble Rot makes for a quick weekend read and one I hope more wine lovers will check out.

That’s why I chose this book for the second installment of the Wine Book Club created by Dr. Debs of Good Wine Under $20. In Deb’s review of this book, she focuses on the Bordelaise wine culture and the historical aspects of the story, not surprising for an esteemed history professor from USC.

Richard, The Passionate Foodie, commented on how winemakers need to adapt to change or face the consequences in his review. Good insight into the tradition-laden culture of Bordeaux.

The Dude checked in with his thoughts on Noble Rot and gave it a thumbs up for, “…a) You love you some Bordeaux wine, b) You prefer your history shaken, & with a twist of gossip, c) You are in the wine industry.” Well played, Dude.

Farley came out from Behind The Vines to post her review and highlight the educational aspects of Noble Rot. I, too, learned a lot about what makes Bordeaux tick and why they are able to command such prices in the international marketplace.

Kori from The Wine Peeps gave a rundown of several juicy quotes from the book in her review but concluded that, “…If you are interested in learning more about Bordeaux, the people, places, and history, this could be a book for you, and you can head over to Amazon or your book retailer of choice to pick up a copy. However, if you are looking for a wine guide or basic wine information, I would suggest that you look elsewhere.”

Colin from the Grapefan’s Wine Adventures blog in the UK posted a mixed review of Noble Rot commenting, “…I’m still not sure what to make of it.” He thought the book might be best suited to Americans but ended up giving the work an 84 on the 100 point scale.

I know other bloggers started the book and hope they finish and post their reviews. As they do, I will update this post. Please send me your link if I missed your review or if you post a bit later than my tardy effort.

Thanks again to Dr. Debs for letting me host Wine Book Club on it’s sophomore edition. I’m hoping to see a better turnout on the 3rd outing to be announced next week.

Although I missed the boat on this one completely, the results are in for the latest Wine Blogging Wednesday over at CorkDork. This month’s objective was to try new red wines from New Zealand. 31 bloggers participated this time! Check it out!

• San Luis Obispo, CA - May 1-4 - Roll out the Barrels
  
  
• Cleveland, OH - May 2-3 - Cleveland International Wine Show
  
  
• Orange Beach, AL - May 2-4 - Southern Breeze Wine & Culinary Festival
  
  
• Livermore, CA - May 3-4 - Downtown Livermore Wine Festival
  
  
• Charlotte, NC - Mary 7-10 - Charlotte Wine & Food Weekend
  
  
• Anderson Valley, CA - May 16-18 - Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Festival
  
  
• Paso Robles, CA - May 16-18 - Paso Robles Wine Festival
  
  
• Sonoma Valley, CA - May 17-18 - Passport to Sonoma Vally
  
  
• Keuka Wine Trail, NY - May 17-18 - Keuka in Bloom
  
  
• New Orleans, LA - May 21-25 - New Orleans Wine & Food Experience
  
  
• Newport Beach, CA - May 23-25 - Newport Beach Food & Wine Festival
  
  
• Banff Springs, Canada - May 31 - Banff Rocky Mountain Wine & Food Festival
  
  
• Santa Cruz Mtns, CA - May 31 - Santa Cruz Mtns Vintners Festival

Napa Valley Nabbing Wine Drinkers? - 10 September 2006

April & Easter Wine Events - 05 April 2007

Hudson Valley Wine & Food Festival - 30 August 2007

March Wine Events - 25 February 2008

Port, Just of Old Men? - 19 December 2006

Cooking with Wine - 21 March 2007

Salad Dressing Wine - 25 April 2007

Wine Origins: Truth in Wine Labeling - 17 April 2008

Whether you're envisioning open-air fields of grapevines or the intimate mystique of a wine cellar, there's something thoroughly romantic about a vineyard wedding. via Today's 6

In my old age I’ve really been turning the dial on skeptical cynicism.  To that end, nothing rankles me more than more government.  Well, at least more government where it shouldn’t be.  Saving people from themselves, yes.  Helping those that need help, yes.  Ensuring children can maximize their potential, yes.  State-run liquor stores, no.

So, it was with much shock and chagrin that I read an article about the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board (PCLB) spending $3.6M dollars for store design improvements and general recommendations designed to improve the shopping experience ... in order to become a world-class retailer.

The upshot is that the Governor of the state, Ed Rendell, told the head of the PCLB, PJ Stapleton, to, “Run this place like a business, not a government bureaucracy.”

Gee, I can’t imagine anything as government-like as a $3.6M dollar contract with a branding firm.  Now that I think about it, it’s awfully corporate, as well.

I want to say: guys, I’ll take a consulting fee of 10% on that $3.6M and save you the balance.  With the savings, the PCLB can do one of two things--either drive to New York City with a bunch of MBA students who need a capstone project and go to every retailer in the city.  Subsequently steal ideas from all that is good. Alternatively, head to Costco, the largest wine retailer in the country, and study how to sell high-volume low qty. sku’s to an adoring public.

There, I just saved them a bunch of money.  I’ll wait for my check to arrive.

I picked up a nice bottle of good cheap wine: Purple Moon Shiraz from Trader Joe’s. This wine, made in Manteca California, was a pretty typical Shiraz with an atypical price tag. For only $3.99, this turned out to be one of many fantastic selections I made at Trader Joe’s.

I enjoyed this Shiraz with some Trader Joe’s Mild Fresh Salsa… boy! What a match!

It was dark plum in color and lots of fruit, the “dry Shiraz” fans that sampled this wine with me loved it. I enjoyed it at a perfect 54 degrees F, so that may have enhanced my enjoyment of this cheap wine.
Now, when I usually write a post I research it on the internet. Aside from some web-spam, this cheap wine didn’t show up at all. Well, I feel this wine deserves some more publicity, so here it is!

Would buy again, without doubt. Stay tuned for my full tribute to Trader Joe’s (and Charles Shaw AKA Two-Buck Chuck)!

Has anyone else tried this? Has anyone been able to get it from places other than Trader Joe’s?

Rating: 8/10
Price: $3.99
Place of purchase: Trader Joe’s

A16 tops the list of the best wine bars in San Francisco. The owner-sommelier Shelley Lindgren?s wine list is focused on Southern Italian varietals. This wine list is an integral part of the A16 experience and what makes it the best of the wine bars in San Francisco.

Andalu on 16th Street is another one of San Francisco?s finest wine bars. They are awesome because they offer small plates with big flavors. This is one of the San Francisco wine bars that has an approachable wine list and offers 35 wines by the glass. The crowd there is mixed and energetic.

Wine bars don?t usually come as good, or as small, as Bacchus on Hyde Street. Bacchus has knowledgeable bartenders that make innovative saké cocktails and they pour over 50 wines that range in price from under $10 a glass to more than $200 a bottle. The signature drink at Bacchus is their sake-version of the mojito.

Cav is one of the wine bars in San Francisco that takes itself extremely seriously. Cav has a well-chosen wine list of over 300 international wines. Some of the wines on the list are offered by a taste, or the glass. The chef has crafted unique takes on lots of dishes and Cav actually offers a cheese course that is served at the proper temperature and is on par with some of the finer restaurants in San Francisco.

Wine bars like Piccolo on Fillmore street handpick the wines on their wine lists. Piccolo is one of the wine bars that choose limited availability and small production wines. They prefer to concentrate on Italian wines. The owner of Piccolo has wonderful antipasti on his menu. There is fierce competition between wine bars to have the most excellent food to accompany their spirits.

Varnish Fine Art is both an art gallery and one of the top wine bars in San Francisco. The atmosphere at Varnish Fine Art is comfortable and it draws a post-work crowd for beer or wine during happy hour. The wine list at Varnish Fine Art is well chosen and features a number of delicious fine wines, as well as soju and saké cocktails.