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Why Italian Wines Are Different Italian Wines Are Different Submitted by Lorenzo on Mon, 2008-04-21 22:13. Just in case? you were wondering; Matt Kramer (winespectator.com) writes: You've probably been in this situation yourself. You're the one choosing the wines for a dinner with friends. You look at the menu and perform the usual mental matchups about what goes with what. But then, much more subtly?even furtively?you also do a mental matchup about which wines go with, ahem, the guests. If you're a lover of Italian w
Italian Officials Block Shipment of Brunello Wines Officials Block Shipment of Brunello Wines Submitted by Lorenzo on Sat, 2008-04-05 09:41. The magistrate of Siena, an appointed judicial authority, has questioned the controls exercised by the consortium of Brunello di Montalcino, which governs the stipulations of how the wine is made in both the vineyard? and the cellar?. Authorities are scanning thousands of documents, including winemaker? notes, harvest and bottling records, Consorzio? registrations and DOCG? stamps. If the sl
Fragmentation: the Strength of Italian Wine - Gaja the Strength of Italian Wine - Gaja Submitted by Lorenzo on Tue, 2008-03-25 13:08. The strength of Italian wine lies in the large number of its producers rather than in the big? numbers of just a few large multinational companies. It is these producers ? most of whom are very small in size ? who represent the force and vitality of the nation?s varied but extremely high-quality viticultural terroirs. The major changes that have taken place in international wine production and t
Fragmentation: the Strength of Italian Wine - Gaja The strength of Italian wine lies in the large number of its producers rather than in the big? numbers of just a few large multinational companies. It is these producers ? most of whom are very small in size ? who represent the force and vitality of the nation?s varied but extremely high-quality viticultural terroirs. The major changes that have taken place in international wine production and trading ? for example, the acquisition of brands by large financial/commercial corporations and the
Sardinian Nuns Run First Organic Winery Nuns Run First Organic Winery Submitted by Lorenzo on Tue, 2008-03-25 12:52. Elena di Luigi (decanter.com) writes: An order of Sardinian nuns is the first convent to practise organic? viticulture?? in Italy. The Compagnia delle Figlie Evaristiane grows hardy indigenous varietals? including Cannonau, Monica and Vermentino on an inhospitable stretch of the west coast of Sardinia. The community focuses its efforts on supporting youth from disadvantaged backgrounds. 'We like to
Sardinian Nuns Run First Organic Winery Elena di Luigi (decanter.com) writes: An order of Sardinian nuns is the first convent to practise organic? viticulture?? in Italy. The Compagnia delle Figlie Evaristiane grows hardy indigenous varietals? including Cannonau, Monica and Vermentino on an inhospitable stretch of the west coast of Sardinia. The community focuses its efforts on supporting youth from disadvantaged backgrounds. 'We like to think that our vines are like the vegetables in the backyard of the convent,' said Mothe
Many Wine Consumers 'Overwhelmed' Wine Consumers 'Overwhelmed' Submitted by Lorenzo on Tue, 2008-03-25 11:57. Tina Caputo (winesandvines.com) writes: St. Helena, Calif. -- As wine consumption in the United States reached an all-time high in 2007, wine producers celebrated the long-awaited arrival of a "wine culture" in America. But according to an 18-month study commissioned by Constellation Wines U.S., a large segment of the consumer population is still "overwhelmed" by wine. The results of "Home & Habits," the s
Many Wine Consumers 'Overwhelmed' Tina Caputo (winesandvines.com) writes: St. Helena, Calif. -- As wine consumption in the United States reached an all-time high in 2007, wine producers celebrated the long-awaited arrival of a "wine culture" in America. But according to an 18-month study commissioned by Constellation Wines U.S., a large segment of the consumer population is still "overwhelmed" by wine. The results of "Home & Habits," the second phase of Constellation's "Project Genome" study, were released March 7 at a
SMS Code on Chianti Bottle to Receive Tasting Notes Code on Chianti Bottle to Receive Tasting Notes Submitted by Lorenzo on Thu, 2008-02-21 10:19. I happened across this brilliant piece of integrated? technology: Firenze - Manda un sms e ti dirò cosa bevi. Lo strumento più amato dagli italiani di ogni generazione diventa un mezzo semplice e diretto per scoprire caratteristiche e provenienza dei vini? del Gallo? Nero? Chianti Classico? A partire da quest?anno è infatti possibile inviare via sms al 366-3333603, il numero seriale ed il form
The Mayonnaise Jar and 2 Glasses of Wine Theory Mayonnaise Jar and 2 Glasses of Wine Theory Submitted by Lorenzo on Thu, 2008-02-21 12:34. When things in your life seem almost too much to handle, when 24 hours in a day are not enough, remember the mayonnaise jar and 2 glasses of wine theory: A professor stood before his philosophy class with some items on his desk in front of him. When the class began, wordlessly, he picked up a very large and empty mayonnaise jar and proceeded to fill it with golf balls. He then asked the students if
"One of the best wines I ever had..." of the best wines I ever had..." Submitted by Lorenzo on Tue, 2008-01-29 10:18. People always ask the best wine I've ever had. I tend to think about which girl I was drinking it with. One of the best wines I ever had was with a gorgeous girl I eloped with by train to Tuscany. We went into this little taverna, and asked for some red wine. The guy went out the back, got a really old, scruffy litre bottle, went up to a vat, and squirted out this purply, foaming, prickly, sour, six-month-old
Italian Overtakes Indian Food as Britain's Favourite Overtakes Indian Food as Britain's Favourite Submitted by Lorenzo on Mon, 2008-01-28 13:12. CURRIES have long been the favourite meal of Britons dining out. But it looks as if they may have lost the crown to Italian cuisine. More people are searching online for Italian than Indian restaurants, a survey reveals today. Of more than 700,000 people monitored by a local business search engine, 13 per cent were looking for an Italian restaurant in their neighbourhood compared with 11
Decanter Wine News Highlights Wine News Highlights Submitted by Lorenzo on Tue, 2008-01-15 11:23. Happy 2008! Here's a bumper selection of noteworthy items from Decanter's advance issue to launch us firmly into the new year (headlines link to full stories): 'Storm' of negative pr as wine.com sneaks on rivals Wine.com has brought ?a bleep-storm of negative PR? on itself after reporting fellow retailers for breaking state shipping laws. Suitors for Stormhoek line up Over 20 bidders are lined up to take over Stor
High price makes wine taste better price makes wine taste better Submitted by Lorenzo on Tue, 2008-01-15 19:01. It's officially the end of the wine world. Someone's blown the whistle on the one thing that every fine restaurant owner has been painstakingly keeping under wraps. Jonathan Leake and Elizabeth Gibney (timesonline.co.uk) write: RESTAURANTS charging inflated prices for wine could be doing their customers a favour. A study has found that people who pay more for a product do enjoy it more. The researchers discove
Live Longer With Chinese Super-wine Longer With Chinese Super-wine Submitted by Lorenzo on Wed, 2008-01-16 08:37. Scientific breakthrough or desperate marketing measures? You decide... Would you drink wine made from genetically engineered grapes if it had extra benefits? Such wine could be on the menu, thanks to a grape variety? six times richer than normal in resveratrol, the compound in red wine associated with increased longevity, decreased heart disease and a host of other benefits. Yuejin Wang and colleagues at the
Manga Comics Ignite Interest in Wine Comics Ignite Interest in Wine Submitted by Lorenzo on Thu, 2007-12-13 11:27. It was just a matter of time before the massive pop-culture phenomenon was going to crossover into the field of wine. Richard Woodard (decanter.com) writes: Japanese Manga comics are driving up interest in wine ? particularly Bordeaux ? across Asia. Manga comics combine elements of myth, mystery and heroism, and Kami no Shizuku ? translated as The Drops of God ? is a quasi-Arthurian quest saga with a twist
How Wines Acquire Different Flavours And Tastes Wines Acquire Different Flavours And Tastes Submitted by Lorenzo on Thu, 2007-12-06 14:13. Yesterday's Ask Dr. Vinny (winespectator.com) touches on something I'm often asked: December 05, 2007: Dear Dr. Vinny, Please tell me how wines acquire the different flavors? and tastes like black currant, spice, chocolate?, cinnamon?, herbs, etc.? Surely they're not blended in with the grapes? ?Romy, Manila, Philippines Dear Romy, While there have been wines made with infusions of fruits,
Pinot Noir Genetic Code Unlocked... Again? Noir Genetic Code Unlocked... Again? Submitted by Lorenzo on Tue, 2007-12-04 10:48. I was amazed to come across this article recently: A team of European scientists has, for the first time, unlocked the genome of the common grapevine, Vitis vinifera??a type of vine commonly used in the production of Pinot Noir. Scientists expect that their discovery, published in the British journal Nature, will make it possible for geneticists to assist in the development of new, more resistant var
Cervejas São Gabriel Goes Big in South Africa São Gabriel Goes Big in South Africa Submitted by Lorenzo on Thu, 2007-11-29 17:58. Portuguese luxury beer producer, Cervejas São Gabriel, is gaining a cult following on the local scene. You would have seen their goods at any Vida outlet. I can only wish these guys the best. Rui Esteves (csgportugal.com) writes: We have been working on our local site, showcasing the fine purveyors of our collection of luxury beers. Please check your listing (or lack thereof) and feel free to subm
Quality White Wine Ages Better Than Red White Wine Ages Better Than Red Submitted by Lorenzo on Thu, 2007-11-29 16:00. Having recently come into possession of some Château d'Yquem, this one caught my eye. Eric Asimov (thepour.blogs.nytimes.com) writes: It amazes me that I still hear from people who doubt that white wines can age. Actually, it?s not so much that they doubt it. It simply doesn?t occur to them. To a certain extent they are right. The vast majority of wines, white or red, are intended for drinking within a
Just in case? you were wondering; Matt Kramer (winespectator.com) writes:
You've probably been in this situation yourself. You're the one choosing the wines for a dinner with friends. You look at the menu and perform the usual mental matchups about what goes with what. But then, much more subtly?even furtively?you also do a mental matchup about which wines go with, ahem, the guests.
If you're a lover of Italian wines, especially traditional-style? versions, you might find yourself in this situation more often than most.
This subject is not much discussed because it makes you feel like, sound like, or realize that you actually are, a snob. Nevertheless, most people who know their way around wine pay as much attention to the "who's drinking" as to the "which dish."
This lesson is often first (painfully) learned at the family Thanksgiving table. You trot out some of the treasures you've been hoarding for that special moment. Big? mistake. Emergency wards are filled with wine lovers traumatized by watching guests guzzle their prized bottles like elephants at a watering hole.
I thought about this when deciding recently which wines to bring to a high-end Italian restaurant. A good host, by definition, wants his or her guests to feel comfortable. Our guests were, thankfully, wine lovers. However, that's not the same as wine savvy. No crime there, of course. But when the time came to reach for Barolo or even Barbera, my hand hovered over those bottles and then, Ouija board-like, moved to red Burgundy and California Pinot Noir.
Now, maybe it was timidity on my part. Perhaps I've lost my belief in the redemptive, even transformative, power of fine wine?never mind the grape variety? or region?. Surely a traditional Barolo can move not merely the uninitiated but even the unreceptive, especially when served with the right food.
I used to think so. Ask any of my long-suffering friends who have been subjected to my evangelical enthusiasm for, say, Gattinara. Or Recioto? della Valpolicella. Or more bizarrely yet, the caramel-colored, sediment?-rich delights of Italy's new-wave/old-way whites, fermented with skin contact?, from Radikon, Massa Vecchia, Castello? di Lispida or Josko Gravner, among others.
But now I find myself hesitating. I've come to the conclusion that really characterful wines?none more so than traditionally made Italian wines?often require a certain receptivity, maybe even a little study. That you can't just spring upon an unsuspecting, not-especially-interested-in-Italian-wines guest the magnificently traditional likes of, say, Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo or even the easier to understand but still true-to-its-old-school Brunello di Montalcino from Tenuta? Il Poggione.
This flies in the face of today's wine democratization?a belief that anybody should be able to understand, without any fuss, any wine put in front of them. And if they don't, well then, it's the wine's fault, not theirs.
This, of course, is why so many Italian reds today are so modernistic, slathered with the creamy? vanilla? toastiness of new French oak??, miscegenated with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah and practically hot-waxed to a tannin?-free smoothness. Do they sell? They sure do. They're easy to understand, familiar-tasting, and?here it comes?you can serve them to anybody.
Do these wines represent the best of Italy? For me, they do not. But they are ambassadors of Italian wines, and for that reason alone they're worthwhile. Italian wines at their best?the reds especially?are different from all others. And this difference, which lies at the very root of Italian wine greatness, is not an instantly seductive one.
The taste? of France is rich and smooth? in the mouth (think foie gras) while that of Italy?classically anyway?is about a slight, mouthwatering bitterness (think Campari). It's easy to see why France's seductive model has become universal, including in Italy. The rigors of traditional Barolo, Brunello, Barbera and Aglianico, among others, are formidable and not immediately come-hither.
So that's why I stayed my hand in choosing the traditional Italian reds I've come to love when deciding what to serve my guests. They're not instantly likable (the wines, not the guests). Of course, I could have chosen modern-style Italian reds, wines that I know are made for just this very easygoingness. You can use instant polenta? these days, too.
Maybe I didn't give my guests enough credit. Or maybe?just maybe?it's fair to say that some people just aren't ready for some wines. Is that snobbish? Or is it a fair reality?
The magistrate of Siena, an appointed judicial authority, has questioned the controls exercised by the consortium of Brunello di Montalcino, which governs the stipulations of how the wine is made in both the vineyard? and the cellar?.
Authorities are scanning thousands of documents, including winemaker? notes, harvest and bottling records, Consorzio? registrations and DOCG? stamps.
If the slightest discrepancy is found, even if subject to interpretation and explanation, the existing stocks of the 2003 vintage? Brunello, the year in question, will be sequestered from distribution, the company said in a statement.
Stocks already on store shelves and restaurant cellars will not be affected.
"The situation has quickly become political and threatens the commerce of innumerable small businesses and the pleasure of millions of consumers around the world,? Marc? Goodrich, chief operating officer of Banfi Vintners, a US importer of the wines, said.
?The promise of Brunello to the consumer remains valid and unquestioned, but has been caught in crossfire between warring factions in what amounts to a political disgrace.?
Goodrich claims the majority of Brunello producers are likely to come under scrutiny. This could lead to the sale? of the 2003 vintage suspended, potentially for several months if not longer.
?We will not know what really happened until all the political dust settles and the authorities retreat,? he said. "But in the meantime, they have put at risk the commercial, social and governmental reputation of all Italy.?
The Greeks called Italy Oenotria - the land of wine. A large, colourful wine map of Italy hangs on my study wall. I've been exploring the viticultural tastes and textures of Italy from Abruzzo, Piedmont and Tuscany to Sardinia, Sicily and Venice. Melgab, an Italian father-and-son company, import a wide range of fine wines and grappa? of origin from Argentina, France, Italy, Portugal and Spain to South Africa.
Treat your taste? buds to a range of new flavours? in classic Italian varieties such as Barbera, Chianti, Nebbiolo, Sangiovese and Trebbiano. The dry?, fruity?, minerality of Lamberti Santepietre Pinot Grigio or the fine, fruity bubbles of Teresa Rizzi Prosecco, the vino? spumante? of Veneto will take you all the way to Harry's Bar in Venice. I loved the herbal? quality of Medici Sangiovese Rubicone from Emilia, the main grape of the great Chianti Classico? wines. Last but not least, try the intense?, robust ruby red Montepulciano d'Abruzzo with its evocative forest fruit and liquorice flavours.
Watch out for Melgab's Italian wines in wine stores at R60-R85.
I discovered the seductive delights of limoncello? this summer - a traditional Italian liqueur? made from steeping the juiciest, fresh lemon peels in alcohol?. Commonly called limoncello in Tuscany, this zesty digestif is made in family cellars in the region? from age-old recipes. The rinds from lemons? freshly picked in the orchards are steeped in alcohol until they reach a perfect infusion of colour, flavour and zest. Made by A&G Distillery, Limonello is sold in an elegant frosted glass bottle in South Africa. Drink frozen, on the rocks or drizzle over ice cream? and fruit salad?.
A&G Limonello costs R86 per 500ml. Visit www.melgab.co.za for more information.
From left, Li Edelkoort (trend forecaster) one of the top 25 most influential people in fashion according to Time Magazine, and Editor of VISI, Sumien Brink.
Karen ter Morshuizen, fashion designer who heads up Lunar.
Guests enjoying the party with Melgab's Prosecco.
The VISI team, from left is Etienne Hanekom (Art Director) next to him, Heidi Finestone (Business Manager), Sumien Brink (Editor) Tina-Marie Malherbe (Décor Editor) with friend, and on the far right is Alwyn from Okasie.
The strength of Italian wine lies in the large number of its producers rather than in the big? numbers of just a few large multinational companies. It is these producers ? most of whom are very small in size ? who represent the force and vitality of the nation?s varied but extremely high-quality viticultural terroirs. The major changes that have taken place in international wine production and trading ? for example, the acquisition of brands by large financial/commercial corporations and the setting-up of huge vineyards run according to "industrial" principles in Asia, Latin America and Australia ? will not ultimately destroy Italy?s special viti-vinicultural heritage.
This is the ? highly optimistic - opinion of Angelo Gaja, one of the main producers responsible for saving and re-launching Italian wine in the 1980s.
"The Italian wine system consists of 33,000 businessmen and women running wineries that vary in size from large to tiny".
Is this extremely high number of producers an important resource or is it a stone round? the nation?s neck??
"This fragmentation - Gaja underlines ? is the result of a historical and socio-economic process that is part and parcel not only of Italy but of Europe as a whole: it?s part of our D.N.A., it makes us what we are. Fragmentation, though, has not prevented Italy from becoming the world?s leading wine-exporting nation, leaving France a very distant second: the result isn?t really that bad at all".
"It is amongst the 4 thousand or so small and tiny companies that export regularly that one finds a great many of the wineries which, thanks to the ratings their wines have received from international guides and wine-writers, have had a positive influence on the image and prestige of Italian wine, leading to beneficial effects for the sector as a whole".
So what does the future hold for small wineries?
"The Italian wine system is extremely well-integrated?. A capacity for working side by side links together companies of different sizes and with different production philosophies and marketing strategies. The smaller producers will help safeguard individual terroirs. They will welcome wine tourists. They will sell wines in bulk to the bottling firms, whilst maintaining the goal of higher quality. They will succeed in grasping consumers? imaginations by explaining their wines and their history. They will learn English. They will think of the whole of Europe as their own country and as the market to conquer, and the number of them who have learned how to sell their wines outside of Europe will also continue to grow? The real great wealth of Italian wine lies in its entrepreneurs, whether large, medium-sized, small or tiny. Together with their wineries, they constitute the motor for building demand for Italian wines. The terroir? and indigenous varieties count for less: these are factors that the producer has the opportunity to underline to a greater or lesser degree. It is logical to imagine, however, that there will be a process of aggregation involving both large and small producers, but if ? taking an educated guess ? there are still 28-30,000 wine producers in fifteen years? time , Italy will continue to be the country with the most sizeable treasure house of people who really know the business of wine. And that is my main reason for looking towards the future of Italian wine with great optimism".
An order of Sardinian nuns is the first convent to practise organic? viticulture?? in Italy.
The Compagnia delle Figlie Evaristiane grows hardy indigenous varietals? including Cannonau, Monica and Vermentino on an inhospitable stretch of the west coast of Sardinia.
The community focuses its efforts on supporting youth from disadvantaged backgrounds.
'We like to think that our vines are like the vegetables in the backyard of the convent,' said Mother Superior Margherita Piludu, 'we've never needed chemical fertilizers or fungicides to grow them. We pursue the same philosophy in viticulture.'
St. Helena, Calif. -- As wine consumption in the United States reached an all-time high in 2007, wine producers celebrated the long-awaited arrival of a "wine culture" in America. But according to an 18-month study commissioned by Constellation Wines U.S., a large segment of the consumer population is still "overwhelmed" by wine. The results of "Home & Habits," the second phase of Constellation's "Project Genome" study, were released March 7 at a press conference.
"Our industry needs to do more to become more customer focused," said José Fernandez, president and CEO of Constellation Wines North America.
The original 2005 study of 3,500 wine drinkers was one of the largest consumer research projects ever conducted by the wine industry. The new study examined the purchases of 10,000 premium-wine consumers--defined as those who purchased wine priced at $5 and higher--over an 18-month period. While the first Project Genome study asked online survey participants to recall their wine purchases during the last 30 days, the Home & Habits study tracked the actual purchases of Nielsen Co.'s Homescan® consumer purchase panel, which employs in-home bar code scanners and surveys to map consumer buying behavior across a demographically balanced sampling.
Nielsen measured consumer attitudes and purchase behavior within multiple purchase channels, including warehouse clubs, supermarkets, mass merchandisers, drug stores, liquor stores and wine shops. The scan data were supplemented with online interviews to classify consumers by Project Genome consumer segments identified in Constellation's original study: Enthusiasts, Image Seekers, Savvy Shoppers, Traditionalists, Satisfied Sippers and Overwhelmed.
Some wines from indigenous varieties, recommended by Angela Lloyd
When wine statistics are trotted out, Italy always arrives somewhere at the top of the global list: third in area under vine (849 000 hectares? in 2004), second in wine produced (5 300 000 000 litres) and per capita consumption (46.50 litres). Another figure that would also leave many other countries in its wake is the number of indigenous grape varieties in this land of the long boot.
Of course, the ubiquitous international quintet of cabernet, merlot, shiraz, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc? are also found in Italian vineyards, but the country's real strength lies in its lesser known varieties, many producing wines of great individuality and distinction.
Such varietal? diversity is as much due to Italy's geography as its history. Wine grapes are grown from 47º North, near the Swiss and Austrian borders and close to the Alps, all the way to 37º South, on the sun scorched island of Sicily, in climates both continental and Mediterranean. Historically, the Greeks, the mysterious Etruscans and of course the Romans themselves have all helped to develop the varietal mix.
The good news is that the Italians have now realised the worth of these grapes, from both quality and marketing points of view and much more is being done to promote the wines made from them.
Fortunately for South Africans, there are several good examples available here. Before recounting a few I tasted recently courtesy of importers Stefano Gabba and his son, Lorenzo, who run Melgab International, a word on the Italian system of naming the origin of its wines.
The DOC? ? Denominazione di Origine Controllata? ? system is modelled on the French Appellation? Contrôlée. This set of regulations covers such aspects as viticulture?, winemaking and labelling. As with the French AOC?, place names rather than grape names often appear on the label, the variety or varieties being implicit in such place name.
Less confusing is the Italian culture of enjoying wine with food, thus their focus is on creating food friendly rather than show winning wines.
The following quartet is a small representation of worthwhile examples of the lesser known Italian varieties available here.
Cantina? Lunae Bosoni Colli di Luni Vermentino 2006 12%R95.19 The Colli di Luni is a DOC on the Ligurian coast just to the east of Genoa. Both white and red grapes? are grown there; the whites based on vermentino with up to 10% other white grapes. This example has presence without showiness in its firm?, fresh structure?, good flavour intensity?, without being overtly fruity?, and dry? finish?. As its coastal situation suggests, vermentino and seafood are natural partners.
La Giustiniana Gavi di Gavi DOCG? Lugarara 2006R99.75 The 'G' in DOCG stands for Garantita, its purpose to identify the finest Italian wines ? 'guarantee' as opposed to merely 'control'. If it has gained credibility in the few number of DOCG's awarded, some have been seriously questioned, but overall it does confer an image of quality where awarded. The town and DOCG of Gavi are on hilly slopes in south east Piedmont, just to the north of the Ligurian coast. Cortese, the only grape permitted, was originally used as a base wine for Asti Spumante?. As a solo act, under the Gavi di Gavi nomenclature, it rose to fame in the 1960s, in the process becoming Italy's most expensive dry white wine. Burton Anderson's Wine Atlas of Italy describes the it as having a 'clearly refined scent and acutely dry flavour with pronounced acidity? countered by a vague sensation of fruit.' Elegant La Giustiniana's fragrance combines flowers and herbs; its fine, mineral? acidity lends a lightness of touch, and it does indeed end bone dry, and has just 12% alcohol?. Again, it is the ideal partner for Mediterranean's seafood bounty.
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