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[05/20/2008, 07:54] Waiter There's Dried Fruit and Nuts In My White Chocolate and Matcha Cream Pots
 
consumer  
Last week we took a trip to the Sunshine Coast, a couple of hours driving north of here. After a visit to the Buderim Ginger Factory I came away with a packet of organic uncrystallized ginger. This is like crystallized ginger but without the sugary coating. Across the road is the Macadamia Nut factory and after sampling the entire line up of flavoured nuts we  decided on a 1kg bag of raw macadamias.

I've been so busy the past couple of months I haven't had time to enter many blog events but I thought I might combine my nuts and ginger, which is not actually a dried fruit, and enter Waiter There's Something In My - Dried Fruit and Nuts, hosted by Andrew at Spittoon.

After a little thought I decided macadamia nuts and ginger would make perfect partners for white chocolate and matcha. I googled white chocolate pots and the first one up was one from my favourite  Tartelette.

 Earlier in the week I made another Tartelette recipe  - Lemon Madeleines
consumer  
Without the lemon glace icing you can see the perfect little bumps.
consumer  
These would be perfect served with my adapted Tartelette recipe for white chocolate pots.

WHITE CHOCOLATE AND MATCHA CREAM POTS WITH MACADAMIA NUTS AND GINGER

(Enough for two greedy people or 4 sensible people)

1/2 cup heavy cream
100 mls whole milk
150 grams white chocolate
3 egg yolks
25 grams raw macadamia nuts roasted in oven for 10 minutes and finely chopped
25 grams crystallized ginger, sliced, or if you can get it, uncrystallized ginger.
2 teaspoons matcha powder dissolved in 4 teaspoons milk

1. Combine milk and cream and bring to the boil.
2. Melt white chocolate over hot water
3. Whisk egg yolks into melted chocolate
4. Pour boiling cream into chocolate and eggs whisking constantly. Bring temperature up to 71C (160F). It will take about 3 1/2 - 4 minutes.
5.Remove from heat into stainless steel bowl placed in bath of iced water.
6. Cool, stirring constantly with whisk till it comes down to 32C (90F), about 4-5 minutes.
7. Divide mixture into two bowls. To one add the chopped macadamia nuts.
8.To the other add the matcha and chopped ginger.
9. Pour macadamia mixture into glass and leave to set in fridge for a couple of hours.
10 Add matcha and ginger flavoured chocolate to top. Leave to set in the fridge.

The matcha flavoured chocolate is not as green as I hoped and maybe I need to add more. If anyone has a formula for flavouring with matcha please leave a comment.


[05/19/2008, 18:22] Wine Distributors & The Death of the Family Winery

consumer You don't see it pointed out much, but here's the fact the of the matter:

The wholesaler-dominated and controlled system of wine distribution in America hurts small business and hurts family businesses.

A new article in Forbes by Dirk Smillie that outlines why it's likely that 20% of all American wineries will be sold off over the next five years makes this point in a backhanded sort of way, but it's a point worth taking not of:

"The expected selloff is driven by aging vineyard owners bedeviled by how drastically difficult it is to make a buck in the new landscape of winemaking. "The wine business today is a funnel," says Robert Nicholson, head of International Wine Associates, a Healdsburg, Calif. corporate finance outfit specializing in vineyard buyouts. At the top are those 5,000 wineries, which produce 7,000 brands. These labels compete with one another, plus foreign imports, at the bottom of the funnel, where they must fit through a bottleneck of 450 distributors who decide which brands get shelf space. In the past decade the number of brands has nearly doubled, while the number of distributors has been cut in half. Result: Family-owned microbrands have seen their pricing power and ability to demand shelf space trickle away."

Were it not for the direct shipment channel, I suspect that the 20% of wineries that are expected to be sold off would exceed 35% - 40%.

I don't think anyone would advocate their be regulations prohibiting the severe consolidation that has occurred among wine distributors over the past 20 years. This is simply the way the market and business works. However, policymakers should take a look at the severe impact that the current wholesaler control of wine distribution has on small business and family wineries. Policymakers should ask themselves if it's good for the economy to allow wholesalers to run family's out of the wine industry simply so wine wholesalers can continue to control wine distribution and reap enormous state-mandated profits that have no relationship to the actual value of the services that wholesalers provide. This needs to be looked at by policymakers in light of the fact that it is the near nationwide policy of granting distributors unjustified profits at the expense of family and small business that is causing great harm.

The answer to this obscene situation is a simple one: Make wholesalers compete and work for their profits.

1. Allow wineries and retailers to ship wine direct to consumers in order to assure alternatives to the wholesaler channel are open to wineries

2. Allow wineries to bypass wholesalers in bringing their wines to market so that true entrepreneurial efforts are at the heart of the wine industry

At the very least these two changes would give small and family wineries a fighting chance against wholesalers who appear to be doing all they can to run them out of business. We'd also learn whether or not the wholesalers deserve or can actually earn the profits they are currently given by the state.

consumer consumer
consumer
[05/18/2008, 15:03] an invitation to your burgundy report
Use this link if you would like to join the ‘experimental’ my.burgundy-report.com pages: i.e. YOUR Burgundy Report pages. The content and discussion comes hardly from me, but from the already 270 and counting people who have and will join. Merchants, producers, enthusiasts and consumers - they are all there… Visit My Burgundy Report I [...]
[05/18/2008, 08:56] Wine & Spirits Hot Picks Tasting: May 22, Los Angeles

consumer
The American wine industry is pretty excited these days. Sales are up, and the demographics are looking good: the youngest generation of alcohol consumers (known as the "Millennials") are much more interested in wine than any other generation before them, and there are a lot of them -- almost as many as the Baby Boomers.

In many ways, the Millennial generation has caused the wine industry to finally realize there's a market in younger wine drinkers, a group that has long been ignored by both the wine media and most wine producers. While the beer and hard liquor industries learned long ago that marketing to twenty-somethings was a golden goose of an opportunity, the wine industry has been slow to figure out that there was another market for their product besides old white men.

Change is coming though, as events like the upcoming Wine & Spirits Hot Picks tasting clearly demonstrate. Focused on folks under 35, this tasting of some of the magazine's top wines, hosted by some of Los Angeles' youngest wine professionals, will likely be a great opportunity for younger wine lovers to taste great wine, at an interesting venue, with lots of cool folks to interact with.

Frankly, I wish I had sought out more events of this sort when I was single. Now that I'm married, I realize that I probably could have gotten a lot more dates hanging out at wine tastings than I did hanging out at the rock climbing gym! Singles take note.

Wine & Spirits knows how to put on a good tasting, and the wines showcased are usually extremely high quality. Their Top 100 tasting is certainly one of the best events of the year in San Francisco, and one I try not to miss under any circumstances. That bodes well for this event, which I haven't ever attended, but which I certainly recommend as probably worth the $75 entrance fee.

Lots of different wines will be served, along with food from some of LA's trendiest restaurants, including Osteria Mozza, which I hear is quite the scene these days.

If some of you readers attend, let me know how it goes.


Wine & Spirits Hot Picks Tasting
Thursday May 22, 2008
7:00 PM to 10:00 PM
MODAA Gallery
8609 Washington Boulevard
Culver City, CA 90232

Tickets are $75 and should be purchased online in advance.

Don't forget to wear dark clothes, drink lots of water, eat food along the way, and if you want to actually learn something.... SPIT!

[05/15/2008, 05:55] Foie gras, corks, critters, seasons, Brunello - sipped and spit

consumerSIPPED: Sauternes
Chicago’s foie gras ban has been repealed in a 37 - 6 vote by the City Council, overturning the 48 - 1 vote that put the ban into effect two years ago. The prices of Sauternes, the unctuous sweet wine often served as an accompaniment, just went up an additional ten percent. [Sun Times, thanks Stephen!]

SIPPED: Cork back for an encork
When a member of the Culinary Institute of American saw my cork iPhone case in February, she exclaimed that it would be the perfect product for recycling their corks! But apparently someone had other plans as the 900 corks pulled there a day will now be recycled in a new program called ReCORK America, sponsored by a cork producer to underscore the “natural” qualities of cork. But what is the carbon footprint of sending all that cork into be recycled into floor tile (and sidebars for wine blogs). Wouldn’t the CIA be better reusing them as festive holiday wreaths–or those iPhone covers?!?

SPIT: Critter labels
On the heels of our worst wine label contest comes more advice, this time from Wines & Vines. One item: a label designer Down Under has a “no critters” policy after seeing the kangaroo reinvented some “50,000 times.” [Wines & Vines] Related: ”

SPIT: Brunello di Montalcino
Not content with the FAA’s Global War On Toiletries, US federal authorities are now turning their eyes on another liquid: Brunello di Montalcino! A recent scandal has revealed blending of grapes other than sangiovese, the only one permissible under the local DOC rules in the wine. Now, as a result, the feds are threatening to block US imports of the pricey Italian wine as of June 9. ?Part of our mandate is to make sure all labels are truthful, accurate and not misleading to the American consumer,?? Mr. Resnick of the US Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau told Eric Asimov. Um, OK, how about starting with Korbel “California Champagne”? [NYT]

consumerSPIT: asparagus in December
In a piece that, oddly, has not received much attention here in the US of A, celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay–known for his high-end restaurants in several countries as well as cursing like, well, a chef–lays into out-of season like nobody’s bidness calling for it to be outlawed in the UK. While absolutely laudable in principal, the legislative angle may be the wrong way to achieve this policy goal. And let’s hope eating local in his case doesn’t mean eating any more horse! [BBC]

SIPPED: Wine into water
Wine & Spirits magazine will be holding two public tastings in Los Angeles and Seattle that sound like fun with good people and good wines. Since I gave up bottled water for thirty days and lived to tell the tale, I like the secondary cause too: $5 of each ticket will go to local water conservation organizations. [Wine & Spirits Hotpicks]
(image 1)

consumer consumer consumer consumer consumer consumer consumer
[05/14/2008, 00:41] The Train to Wonderland & the F-uck You Factor

consumer How does the Wine & Spirit Wholesalers of America tell American wine consumers to F*ck Off? Like this:

"The American consumer who?s complaining that he can?t get some obscure frou-frou wine produced and bottled by Croatian virgins is missing the point. The reason he even WANTS that bottle of wine is because of the incredible variety that is already on the shelves! And how did it get there? WE put it there!"
Jack Goldenberg, Chairman of WSWA at their annual convention in Las Vegas

It's a pretty simple and straight forward attitude that these wholesalers bring to the table: You want a wine we don't feel you should have? States need more tax revenue that can come from direct shipping? Fuggetaboudit! Take your "frou frou" wine and keep whining. This is OUR monopoly and we'll run it the way we want it run!

The very notion that wine lovers want access to the thousands upon thousands of wine wholesalers don't carry only because wholesalers have provided access to a slim variety of wines turns the idea of reality on its head.

Mr. Jack Goldenberg is now the chairman of an Association who has as one of their primary goals to keep wine out of the hands of legal adults.  They literally believe they can convince consumers that the wines they want, but can't get because of wholesalers' efforts to block access to them, amounts to a service they are providing to th public. I have no doubt that Alice from the land of Wonderland is on the payroll at WSWA. Nothing else can explain this absurd line of reasoning.

But here's the real crack up. At the same convention where Chairman Goldenberg literally told wine lovers across the country to F*ck Off, the WSWA CEO, Craig Wolf, attempted to justify a monopoly system that serves mainly to benefit wholesalers as the only line of defense against people dying from tainted alcohol:

"Look around the world.  People are dying from drinking tainted  alcohol. Just read the news: deaths in India,  Nepal, Paraguay, Nicaragua and elsewhere. And get this ? In 2006, Russia ?celebrated? the fact that there were ONLY 26,000 deaths from alcohol poisoning.  A one year drop of almost 30%. What an achievement...You just don?t see that here in the United States, because wholesalers deal exclusively with reputable, licensed suppliers and there is never any question of the integrity of the product that my members distribute."

Did you catch that? According to the CEO of the WSWA, people will die if wholesalers don't control all access to alcohol. LAST CALL FOR THE TRAIN TO WONDERLAND. ALL ABOARD!

You are going to be seeing the wholesalers talk a lot about the dangers of any wine arriving in consumers' hands that did not first get sticky in their hands. If you are in favor of better access to wine and in favor of a rational system of wine distribution that accounts for the realities the new market and new consumer attitudes, then PRAY the wholesalers base their case for keeping total control in their own hands on the idea that people will die without without the wholesaler. If they do indeed take this route, they will be laughed out of the room and change will come even faster.

 

consumer consumer
consumer
[05/13/2008, 19:16] Your Government is Protecting you: First Al-Qaeda and now Brunello

consumer You can feel safer in your bed tonight knowing that the United States government is protecting you from another danger. That new evil is, of course, Brunello di Montalcino that might have a bit of cabernet or merlot adulterating the sangiovese grosso. These are the same consumer protectors that brought you the 75% rule for American varietal wines, which requires that the stated variety make up at least three quarters of the named wine. So while it’s fine for an American producer of pinot noir to blend in 25% syrah or anything else the missteps of a few producers in Brunello will bring down the wrath of the TTB on all producers.

It’s great to know that our government is always on the watch.

US threatens to block all Brunello imports - decanter.com

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[05/13/2008, 02:07] An Object Lesson

If you ever wanted an object lesson in the "Blinders On" mentality that results when a state controls and restricts consumers' access to wine, all you have to do is read THIS STORY in the Salt Lake City Tribune on ordering wine direct through the state run system that turned into a 5 month odyssey of frustration and surrealism.

The report begins by noting that Utahans often order one of the tens of thousands of wines the Utah state system doesn't list in inventory from on-line sources then have it shipped to Wyoming, where they go pick it up and drive it back home. Yes, this is illegal, but it turns out it's really the Utahans only choice is they want to access wine that the good Utah government regulators don't choose to bring into the state.

But no worries. This illegal activity isn't necessary: "Under Utah law, consumers may special order wine, liquor or heavy beer that isn't one of the 4,000-plus offerings on the state's listing, says John Freeman, DABC operations director."

The reporter did just this. He wanted to get his hands on two bottles of Quivera Zinfandel from Dry Creek Valley.

He ordered it through the state in November 2007. He got it in May 2008. You've got to read this story.

The really ugly part is that were rational wine shipping laws in place in Utah, the reporter could have ordered his wine from any of more than 20 different on-line wine merchants and had it shipped to him within 3 or 4 days of ordering it.

I'm not one of those Small Government, Conservative kind a guys. But when you read this sort of thing you  really start to understand where those folks are coming from when they claim that if you want something screwed up and as inefficient as possible, just give it over to the government to do.

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[05/12/2008, 18:55] Interview with Ed Lehrman of Vine Connections: Second Installment
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*What an unusual mix in terms of the international producers you represent?why Argentina, New Zealand and Japan?

- Not really if you consider that Argentina and Japan (Ginjo sake), and to some extent New Zealand, share the same common elements?there are great wines and sake being produced by highly talented winemakers and tojis (master brewers), and they are not getting recognized yet. The quality is already in the bottle?so why should these sell less or get less respect than wine from more obvious regions? We always say that we are really a ?national education company? since we usually explain more than we sell. Our job is to get people to taste these wines and premium sake, and the stuff inside the bottles takes care of the rest. At the heart of this idea is also the notion that in the end, it?s the people you work with who make the difference between mediocre and ?wow!?. We have been lucky, fortunate, and smart (maybe a little of each) to meet and represent some of the top talent in these regions:

Susana Balbo?Crios de Susana Balbo, Susana Balbo signature wines, Nosotros (with Pedro below)

Pedro Marchevsky ? BenMarco

Pepe Galante & Mariano di Paola ? mapema

Luis Reginato ? Luca, Tikal, La Posta

Roberto de la Mota - Mendel

Jose & Pepe Reginato ? Reginato sparkling wines

Guy Davis ? Davis Family Vineyards (Russian River, CA) and Gusto (NZ SB)

13 Master Brewers from all over Japan?each as talented as anyone we have met.

*As someone who deals so closely with Argentine producers, what types of obstacles, limitations and concerns have any of them expressed to you in terms of being able to export and promote their products abroad?

- Well, I want to stay out of trouble here since I travel to Argentina a lot, but let me just say that the Argentine government has historically been more of a hindrance than a help for wine exports. As an example, and hard to believe, they actually tax EXPORTS! Perhaps the bigger obstacle for Argentine wineries is that the economic and political situation is relatively unstable, and when you are in an industry that measures commitment and success over a decade or longer due to capital investment requirements, it is hard to deal with a system that usually looks out only 2-3 years at a time.

*In your eyes, what sets apart these Argentine producers you represent? What do their wines bring to the table of American wine consumers that large-yield, often conglomerate-backed wines simply cannot?

- I alluded to this a bit above when talking about who we represent and why. I think there are three main things that set our producers apart:

1) Our wineries are owned by and have Argentine winemakers who have lived in this unique climate and region for their entire lives. For us, that means that the wines that they make TASTE like Argentine wines, not like some random wine from somewhere in the world. And as talented as some of the flying/foreign winemakers are who are working in Mendoza, I have yet to taste a wine from them that thrills me the way our producers? wines do at the dinner table. And I taste everything from down there.

2) As good as they already are, they are still always trying to learn how to improve their wines, and in today?s wine world, that?s the only way you stay on top. It shows.

3) Obsessive attention to detail seems like an abused phrase, but in winemaking it is crucial and not as common as you would think. Our winemakers are also our close friends and in Argentina that is taken pretty seriously. They make sure that every step is done with the utmost care because they would never want to look their friends in the eye and say, ?uhh..I?m sorry but this wine is just ok because we weren?t really paying close attention when we made it.? Large wineries may be able to solve #1 above, but #2 and #3 are far harder to come by, and that?s probably as true in the US as it is in Argentina.

*Looking ahead?are there any regions Vine Connections is looking to expand its portfolio toward, and why?

- We made a strategic decision a few years ago that we would remain specialists in Argentine wine and Japanese sake. Some importers have gone in the opposite direction and are happy to sell one of everything from anywhere, but we?re just not built that way as people. We started as leaders in both of these categories and we feel the only way to stay out in front is to specialize. That?s why we spend almost a month per year in Mendoza and visit Japan for at least 2 weeks every year. It?s our own ?attention to detail? mantra, and we try to stick to it so that we can look our customers in they eye and say every time, ?This is really great Argentine wine and Ginjo sake?. Every time.

- Fortunately, we won?t be bored since there still plenty of regions and microclimates still left to discover in Argentina.

*Given the nature of the market here in the United States, what advice would you give to consumers who would like be aware of, as well as actually see, a dramatic increase in availability of premium Argentine wines such as those crafted by your producers?

- American consumers have helped their own cause a lot already by being very open to trying wines like Malbec, Bonarda, and Torrontes. I think they will help themselves even further by continuing to experiment with wines at many different prices, not just the ?great values? under $15. Nick and I firmly believe that well-made Argentine wines offer incredible value and over-deliver at all price points. A $12 wine is worth more like $16, and a $30 wine is worth more like $40 when compared to other wine regions of the world. And, of course, you can support quality-focused companies like Vine Connections by paying attention to the importer name or logo (like our compass) that appear on every bottle. As with other wine regions, a good wine importer can be your best friend when you haven?t tried a particular wine yet and would like some assurance that you are going to enjoy it?especially when spending more than $15 or so.
[05/12/2008, 18:55] Interview with Ed Lehrman of Vine Connections: Second Installment
i
*What an unusual mix in terms of the international producers you represent?why Argentina, New Zealand and Japan?

- Not really if you consider that Argentina and Japan (Ginjo sake), and to some extent New Zealand, share the same common elements?there are great wines and sake being produced by highly talented winemakers and tojis (master brewers), and they are not getting recognized yet. The quality is already in the bottle?so why should these sell less or get less respect than wine from more obvious regions? We always say that we are really a ?national education company? since we usually explain more than we sell. Our job is to get people to taste these wines and premium sake, and the stuff inside the bottles takes care of the rest. At the heart of this idea is also the notion that in the end, it?s the people you work with who make the difference between mediocre and ?wow!?. We have been lucky, fortunate, and smart (maybe a little of each) to meet and represent some of the top talent in these regions:

Susana Balbo?Crios de Susana Balbo, Susana Balbo signature wines, Nosotros (with Pedro below)

Pedro Marchevsky ? BenMarco

Pepe Galante & Mariano di Paola ? mapema

Luis Reginato ? Luca, Tikal, La Posta

Roberto de la Mota - Mendel

Jose & Pepe Reginato ? Reginato sparkling wines

Guy Davis ? Davis Family Vineyards (Russian River, CA) and Gusto (NZ SB)

13 Master Brewers from all over Japan?each as talented as anyone we have met.

*As someone who deals so closely with Argentine producers, what types of obstacles, limitations and concerns have any of them expressed to you in terms of being able to export and promote their products abroad?

- Well, I want to stay out of trouble here since I travel to Argentina a lot, but let me just say that the Argentine government has historically been more of a hindrance than a help for wine exports. As an example, and hard to believe, they actually tax EXPORTS! Perhaps the bigger obstacle for Argentine wineries is that the economic and political situation is relatively unstable, and when you are in an industry that measures commitment and success over a decade or longer due to capital investment requirements, it is hard to deal with a system that usually looks out only 2-3 years at a time.

*In your eyes, what sets apart these Argentine producers you represent? What do their wines bring to the table of American wine consumers that large-yield, often conglomerate-backed wines simply cannot?

- I alluded to this a bit above when talking about who we represent and why. I think there are three main things that set our producers apart:

1) Our wineries are owned by and have Argentine winemakers who have lived in this unique climate and region for their entire lives. For us, that means that the wines that they make TASTE like Argentine wines, not like some random wine from somewhere in the world. And as talented as some of the flying/foreign winemakers are who are working in Mendoza, I have yet to taste a wine from them that thrills me the way our producers? wines do at the dinner table. And I taste everything from down there.

2) As good as they already are, they are still always trying to learn how to improve their wines, and in today?s wine world, that?s the only way you stay on top. It shows.

3) Obsessive attention to detail seems like an abused phrase, but in winemaking it is crucial and not as common as you would think. Our winemakers are also our close friends and in Argentina that is taken pretty seriously. They make sure that every step is done with the utmost care because they would never want to look their friends in the eye and say, ?uhh..I?m sorry but this wine is just ok because we weren?t really paying close attention when we made it.? Large wineries may be able to solve #1 above, but #2 and #3 are far harder to come by, and that?s probably as true in the US as it is in Argentina.

*Looking ahead?are there any regions Vine Connections is looking to expand its portfolio toward, and why?

- We made a strategic decision a few years ago that we would remain specialists in Argentine wine and Japanese sake. Some importers have gone in the opposite direction and are happy to sell one of everything from anywhere, but we?re just not built that way as people. We started as leaders in both of these categories and we feel the only way to stay out in front is to specialize. That?s why we spend almost a month per year in Mendoza and visit Japan for at least 2 weeks every year. It?s our own ?attention to detail? mantra, and we try to stick to it so that we can look our customers in they eye and say every time, ?This is really great Argentine wine and Ginjo sake?. Every time.

- Fortunately, we won?t be bored since there still plenty of regions and microclimates still left to discover in Argentina.

*Given the nature of the market here in the United States, what advice would you give to consumers who would like be aware of, as well as actually see, a dramatic increase in availability of premium Argentine wines such as those crafted by your producers?

- American consumers have helped their own cause a lot already by being very open to trying wines like Malbec, Bonarda, and Torrontes. I think they will help themselves even further by continuing to experiment with wines at many different prices, not just the ?great values? under $15. Nick and I firmly believe that well-made Argentine wines offer incredible value and over-deliver at all price points. A $12 wine is worth more like $16, and a $30 wine is worth more like $40 when compared to other wine regions of the world. And, of course, you can support quality-focused companies like Vine Connections by paying attention to the importer name or logo (like our compass) that appear on every bottle. As with other wine regions, a good wine importer can be your best friend when you haven?t tried a particular wine yet and would like some assurance that you are going to enjoy it?especially when spending more than $15 or so.
[05/12/2008, 15:30] Organic Wine Week, Part 1: Chardonnay
iThis week I'm focusing on a pair of organic wines to highlight the increasingly wide range of options consumers have if they want to drink wine that has been made with organic grapes.

There was a time when wines made with organic grapes were difficult to find, but that is certainly not true any more. In fact, you are probably drinking wine made with organic grapes and not even realizing it. One of the things that has struck me is that some wines don't identify themselves as using organic grapes on their labels.

One of the reasons for this may be that current regulations require that a wine labeled "Organic" must not only be made with organic grapes, there must be no added sulfites. Sulfites are added to wines to help stabilize them for shipping and storage, so it's pretty hard to find a wine that is "Organic." It's far more common to find a wine that is made "with organic grapes." If you look at the tiny type at the bottom of the Jeriko label, you will see that it indicates that organic grapes were used. Wines labeled in this fashion have been made with certified organic fruit, but do have sulfites added for stability. If you want to find out more about organic wine, visit the Organic Wine Company and read up on their notes regarding how wines are classified.

My latest recommendation for a white wine made with certified organic grapes is the 2005 Jeriko Estate Chardonnay. ($19.99, WineQ) Jeriko Estate now uses only certified, organically grown grapes in their wines, all of which are grown in vineyards in Mendocino County. This was a creamy chardonnay that gets its body from partial malolactic fermentation in oak, and its crispness from a majority of fermentation time spent in stainless steel tanks. It was a pleasant bright straw in color, and had aromas of summer orchard fruits like pear and apple, and some late summer hay. The flavors you will find in this wine are of apples and cream, with a faintly buttery aftertaste. All in all, I found this a nicely made example of a creamy, California Chardonnay with good QPR. It will appeal to anyone who likes a richer style of chardonnay, but one that is still fresh and crisp.

With a wine like this, there is nothing better (in my opinion) than oven-fried chicken and slaw. I like the recipe for buttermilk-dipped, pan-browned, and oven-fried chicken from Cooking Light which tastes every bit as decadent as the real thing but leads to only a fraction of the guilt afterwards. The creamy, tangy buttermilk and caramelized flour coating is a perfect pairing for a creamy Chardonnay like this one. And for the slaw, do yourself a favor and try this one with dried cherries, sweetly spicy pecans, apples, cabbage, and a vinegar-based dressing. I cheated and picked up a package of already sweet and spicy pecans from Trader Joe's, and only used green cabbage, by the way, and it was fine. The apples in the slaw really pick up the apple notes in the Chardonnay.

As I get older I'm finding I care more and more about the environment. I stopped drinking bottled water, I'm buying a hybrid car, and I'm eating more organic, locally produced food. It's a good thing to be able to extend this philosophy into my wine drinking, with such tasty results.
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[05/10/2008, 12:10] Put A Cork In It?
iFewer sales reps are more paranoid these days than cork salespeople. They barrage you with emails damning all other types of closures. At trade shows they meet winemakers with frigid stares that have changed over from cork to something else.

The battle is fully engaged on what is the best closure for a wine bottle and as always, in the heat of battle there is often more confusion than fact. Much as a war correspondent sees through the smoke of conflict, writer George Taber has cut through all the brouhaha to offer us a clear look at the cork conflict in his book, To Cork or Not to Cork: Tradition, Romance, Science and The Battle for the Wine Bottle. Taber is also the author of Judgment of Paris, which is bound for the big Hollywood screen. The journalistic temperament that Taber brings to his book, a rarity in wine writing, should be no surprise as he is a twenty-one year veteran of Time Magazine.

The combat is about the dreaded TCA (2,4,6 trichloroanisole) that destroys anywhere (depending on whose giving the stats) from 3% to 15% or so of every bottle of wine sealed with a cork in the world. These are the so called “corked” bottles as wines spoiled by TCA have a distinct musty character that can range from the wine seeming just not quite right, to bottles that almost make you gag. What makes TCA the nightmare of winemakers it that mos